This is a grown-up restaurant,for grown-up people with grown-up occasions to mark,and grown-up wallets to pay for the pleasure. The grand entrance and corporate-style foyer lead into a spectacular dining room overlooking the Quay,the Opera House and Bridge. Choose two,three or four courses from a varied menu of smallish plates or go the whole hog with a seven-course tasting menu and matching wines. Some dishes are spectacular;warm marron tail with bella rosso tomatoes and lemon verbena is at once fresh and silky. Others didn't quite get there;Kurobuta pork neck is a savoury wonder but struggled against a puree of salty Persian feta. Small quibbles are made up for with a spectacular dessert of black sesame parfait,its arrangement almost as elegant as the view. And service is fast,cheerful and a beguiling mix of casual and restrained.

And … Great cocktails,champagne and artisan beers in the very Mad Men bar.

THE LOW-DOWN
VibeMuted,comfortable,all eyes on the food or the view.
Best bitView,service,little touches such as locally made dashi butter. 
Worst bitThe bill can mount up.