The more the disconnect between city and country grows,the more we crave the old-fashioned values of country life. Hence the innate appeal of this cute,cosy wooden-clad dining room,serving a four-course,seasonally driven menu twice-nightly to a communal table for 20. The restaurant's designer,Nicholas Gurney,runs the floor,while young chefs Mike Mu Sung and Tristan Rosier (both ex-est.) make almost everything from scratch. A typical dinner could start with darkly fossilised,crisply fried potato skins playing off a whippy aioli and dense,just-baked potato bread,and follow with silky citrus-cured ocean trout with crisp rye crumbs,yoghurt and shaved fennel. A rough-and-tumble share plate of roast spatchcock,caramelised onions,wilted kale and bready stuffing is a Gen Y Sunday roast,and a fruit-based dessert is followed - surprise - with a slice of freshly baked cake. It's like a dinner party with 19 of your closest hipster friends,and joy of joys,no dishes to wash.