Pizza isn't the only big drawcard at Via Napoli:the waiters,with their high-octane charm,have personalities bigger than the Roman Empire at its peak. But Via Napoli's wood-fired,lightly scorched pizza is worth the journey alone. Most people skip the 13-inch circle to share a half-metre or metre-long pizza slab sporting several toppings. Vesuvio - tomato,buffalo mozzarella,ricotta,ham,salami,basil - contrasts nicely with the eponymous Via Napoli (subtitled'Luigi's fantasy pizza',our chef's special was broccolini with sliced sausage). End with the delightfully sozzled tiramisu.