In our beauty-obsessed culture,the line between aesthetic and medical concerns is increasingly blurred. But what exactly is prescription skincare? And who is it for?
Prescription skincare is on the rise.iStock
What is prescription skincare?
The most common skincare ingredient that requires a prescription are retinoids a kind of vitamin which can be taken orally,such as Accutane,or applied topically. Some online services also “prescribe” ingredients such as vitamin C and hyaluronic acid,which are not classed as drugs and do not need a doctor to be administered.
According to experts,it’s important to distinguish between retinols,which are widely available,and retinoids,which require a prescription due to their strength – and are a common request.
The founder of Inside Out Dermatology in Melbourne,Dr Niyati Sharma,says there is currently more scientific evidence supporting the effectiveness of drug retinoids compared to cosmetic retinoids. Due to their strength,drug retinoids can cause irritation and need to be used correctly under the supervision of a professional.
Traditionally,Sharma says,retinoids are prescribed for acne-prone skin. They are also often prescribed to help with “skin rejuvenation,reducing wrinkles and the appearance of fine lines,and to improve the texture and quality of their skin” – and mainly for older patients.
But Sharma says she has noticed a marked uptick in patients asking for retinoids such as tretinoin. In particular,she’s seeing more young people – – ask for it.
Prescription skincare is different to medical grade skincare,a term used to refer to products with backing from scientific research,although the use of the term is not regulated and a common marketing buzzword.
Australia is the skin cancer capital of the world,however many aren't getting potentially life-saving skin checks due to the cost.
Who needs prescription skincare?
Despite what the internet may have you believe,not everyone needs prescription skincare,says Dr Michelle Rodrigues,a dermatologist and founder of Chroma Dermatology in Melbourne. For most people,she says a simple,fragrance-free routine consisting of a cleanser,moisturiser and SPF is sufficient.
Rodrigues is particularly concerned about the rise of teenagers incorporating active ingredients into their routines,which is not only unnecessary but can irritate skin and cause damage long-term. “I’m seeing a lot of patients coming through the clinic who have redness,irritation,contact dermatitis,rosacea and a condition called perioral dermatitis,which are all caused by using too many or the wrong combination of products.”
So while she says prescription skincare isn’t necessary,Rodrigues is concerned by an increase in consumers getting skincare advice from social media rather than a professional.
Sharma agrees that without a solid skincare foundation,prescription skincare is futile. “If you’re not wearing sunscreen,there’s no point doing anything else,” she says. “If you’re hoping to repair sun damage with retinoids or retinols,then there’s no chance of that happening. You have to block out the UV – the damaging rays of the sun – and particularly the wavelength UVA,which you can only do with wearing sunscreen every day.”
As a doctor,Sharma says she would never prescribe skincare ingredients unless necessary. “I think it’s important to find out why people want retinoids. Is it because of TikTok,where there’s an influencer talking about it,or is there actually a proper medical concern that requires a retinoid?”
When it comes to active ingredients such as vitamin C or hyaluronic acid that can be purchased over the counter,Sharma says the benefits of consulting a professional is getting it right on the first go. She explains a doctor can help find the right products for your skin and guidance on how to introduce them safely.
The rise of skincare prescription platforms
As the demand for personalised skincare,particularly the kind not available off the shelf,grows,online services allowing consumers to skip a trip to the GP are popping up. Sharma is a consultant dermatologist with Moshy,an online health and wellness service for women. She says the No.1 appeal of these platforms is convenience.
“A lot of patients will tell me is that a GP they see in person may not necessarily want to prescribe them tretinoin … I don’t know why that is a problem. Perhaps they’re not trained enough to prescribe it or know all the side effects,” Sharma says.
“[These online services] break down that barrier of trying to explain to your GP why you need it when that might not be their interest or specialisation.”
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