Pina Pop-Up operates as something of a test lab for Potts Point favourite Room 10.Credit:Dominic Lorrimer
What looked like a stealthily timed takeover was actually a plan a long time in the making. It’s no simple expansion,either. Pina − currently opened as a pop-up before a full renovation in September − is something of a test lab for everything Hardjasudarma wanted to try at Room 10 but couldn’t.
“In Room 10,we don’t have access to a proper cooking space. All we have is an induction cooktop and two sandwich presses. So we’ve just had to play smart with a slow cooker and other things. Here,we want to do something more. More than coffee,sandwiches and salads.”
By “more”,Hardjasudarma means introducing foods that gently expand the typical brunch palate,and where his partner and chef Yuvi Thu gets to flex her cooking skills. The menu’s specials section is where you’ll likely see this. One of the early frontrunners is the chicken and mushroom congee,a dish that draws on Hardjasudarma’s Indonesian heritage.
The chicken and mushroom congee is topped with fried leek,garlic and a swig of sesame oil and soy.Credit: Dominic Lorrimer
Large vats of the rice porridge are cooked over low heat a day ahead,and the resulting congee base is a smooth,fluffy vehicle for chunks of fresh chicken,sweet corn and shiitake slivers. Topped with a generous sprinkling of fried leek,garlic,and a swig of the sesame oil and soy,Pina’s version comes with two slices of Iggy’s sourdough instead of the typical fried bread ("cakwe"in Indonesian,or"youtiao"in Chinese). These guys are serious about the gentle introductions,but hey,with bread that good,no one’s complaining. Expect to see other Asian-inspired specials,such as dhall with curry cauliflower and lemon yoghurt down the track.
As for the regular menu,you’ll find a list of comforting daytime staples designed to build their own following. Hardjasudarma regards Pina in"friendly competition"with Room 10. “ It’s like I’m playing chess with myself,basically,” he says,laughing.