We arrive in Utrecht in the afternoon,with time only for a sandwich and an excellent guided tour of the Domtoren (church bell tower),the tallest in the country. As the sun begins to set on some of the most spectacular scenery of the whole trip,we race to reach Gouda before nightfall. It's immensely satisfying overtaking the locals on our old bikes.
The next day begins with a typical hearty Dutch breakfast,a quick tour of Gouda's town square and an obligatory visit to a cheese shop. We depart for Kinderdijk,crossing the Molenkade River by car ferry before encountering one of the toughest hill climbs of the trip:the short incline from the ferry up to the main road,a challenge on an overloaded omafiets with bulging panniers.
Kinderdijk is a compact World Heritage-listed site where 19 picture-postcard Dutch windmills are set close together. On a clear sunny day,it is windmill heaven.
On day four,we cross the Belgian border,disappointed by the lack of signs and fanfare. We celebrate with nougat in the woods of De Zoom-Kalmthoutse Heide,a cross-border nature reserve.
Eventually,we reach Antwerp and,like the Tour de France riders,cycle along the Scheldt River,past Antwerp Castle and the old docks.
Aside from the elation of riding from Amsterdam to Antwerp,the main town square holds special significance to us. Dad's black-and-white photograph of mum standing by Brabo Fountain is one of our few surviving family treasures. Now we are standing in the same spot,trying to re-create that picture and create a few new ones for future generations.
If only our parents had warned us,however,about the International Seaman's House,with its hospital-inspired decor and the blood-smeared mosquitoes splattered on the walls of our room.
We enjoy a rest day wandering around Antwerp's Gothic architecture,sampling such Belgian delicacies as chips with mayonnaise,waffles and Trappist beers. Overnight stays in Gent and Brugge complete the trifecta of historic Flemish towns as we ride on to Middelburg in the Netherlands,passing through a rural landscape of gorgeous fields,red-roofed farmhouses and tiny churches. After crossing the seemingly non-existent border,we follow the North Sea Cycle Route to the coast.
Much of Middelburg's city centre was destroyed in 1940 by the same German aerial bombing that destroyed much of Rotterdam. While Middelburg survived and was rebuilt,German tourists now invade the town each summer,according to our B&B host.
Strong winds greet us the next day as we ride in slipstream formation to the Delta Project,a massive engineering system of dykes,locks and storm-surge barriers built following a flood that killed 2000 people in 1953.
We ride over the Oosterschelde Stormvloedkering,which is three kilometres of moveable dams that took 10 years to build and formed part of this year's Tour de France. I'm sure it makes for stunning television but up close it's ... breezy. The abundant wind turbines aren't here for decoration. Forget flooding,I'm surprised the country doesn't blow away.
Eventually we reach Neeltje Jans,an artificial island that was built towards the end of the 1960s and served as the construction site for the main elements of the storm surge barrier. Now it is the site of a theme park that's only worth visiting for the Delta Expo,where we learn more about the tragic flood and engineering project.
We're relieved to conquer the strong winds and arrive in Rotterdam,the second-largest city in the Netherlands. While it lacks Amsterdam's well-preserved houses and canals,there is much to admire,such as the views from the Euromast,the iconic Cubic Houses and the Erasmus Bridge,the latter a striking backdrop for the Rotterdam prologue to the Tour de France.
All too soon we reach the outskirts of Amsterdam. By now,our bikes are falling apart but I've grown to love my adopted granny. Our ride may not be worthy of a yellow jersey but we feel triumphant,if tired. A seat in an Amsterdam bar is the only winner's podium I need.
Trip notes
Getting there
Several airlines fly to Amsterdam,including Qantas,KLM Royal Dutch Airlines and Singapore Airlines. Return economy airfares from about $1860.flightcentre.com.au,webjet.com.au.
Staying there
Villa Augustus in Dordrecht has 37 newly renovated rooms in a former water tower and pumping station,with a hotel restaurant,market cafe and gardens. Doubles from €125 ($177) a night.villa-augustus.nl.
A Place To Be ... in Gent is a B&B that's housed in a former convent,with doubles from €80 a night.bedandbreakfastghentbelgium.com.
B&B Dieltiens,Brugge is in a quiet street just a short stroll to the centre of town. Three excellent guest rooms,doubles including a superb breakfast from €60-€80 a night.bedandbreakfastbruges.be.
Stayokay Hostel,Rotterdam,is in the renowned Cubic Houses. Prices from €20 a person.stayokay.com.
Cycling there
You can hire bikes from a bike shop. Bike City,Orange Bike and Rent-A-Bike Damstraat in Amsterdam rent granny bikes for about €7-€8 a day for seven days or more (Bike City also rents panniers),bikecity.nl,orangebike.nl,rentabike.nl.
You can buy a second-hand Dutch granny bike for about €150-€250 from a bike shop in Amsterdam and sell it back at the end of the trip. You will need to buy or bring your own panniers.