If only I had known about class differences and booking in advance at the station. That,and choosing to disembark at Kandy and not chug along further – rookie error. After Kandy is where the scenery,not the seating,stiffens the neck.
On this trip,I board second class in a new Chinese-manufactured S14 train,its glossy blue,white and red paint job giving the historic train journey a vivid makeover. The comforts between classes are similar,with newer trains featuring restaurant cars.
I embark on a three-hour journey from Kandy to Nanu Oya:the latter the stop for Nuwara Eliya,dubbed Sri Lanka’s Little England. Green highlands peppered with Tudor-style architecture,colonial buildings,pointed-roof cottages,manicured gardens and even a British-style red telephone booth of yesteryear. Even Nuwara Eliya’s cool climate mimics its alter ego.
But before I enter this mishmash of worlds 80 kilometres away,there are others to capture.
With no allocated second-class seat,I decide to mix up my experience beyond staring out of the large open window. I sit next to a local in the doorway of one of the carriages and we chat for a bit;cricket,Australia – common small-talk topics with locals. Our hands firmly grip the handles as the train rattles past villages,emerald valleys and curled plantations dotted with tea pickers in their bright saris. Even with the jostling,the smile never leaves my face passing this captivating scenery. It truly is remarkable.
I stick my head out to peer at the carriages behind;it looks like a colourful caterpillar slowly making its way around lush mountain bends. Other passengers stick out more than their necks;the fearless hang themselves outside carriage doorways,a pose that has become an Instagram regular,despite the danger.
We briefly stop at Watawala,where a vendor hops on to sell samosas. And another joins to offload his bag of the popular street-food snack,dal vada – deep-fried spiced chickpea balls – across the carriages. That’s my kind of fast-food delivery service.
Going through tunnels feels like a theme park ride. There’s collective excitement with passengers yelling “whoo!” outside windows and doorways as we snake through the darkness.
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If I continue beyond my stop,I would cross the spectacular Nine Arch Bridge – arguably Sri Lanka’s most famous stop,just outside the tourist town Ella. Despite not going the distance (though I do visit the bridge later),I have my three hours of fun:cheap thrills,stunning landscapes and the transport to get me to my next destination. Better yet,the ultimate highlight of my Sri Lankan trip is only 1200 rupees,approximately $6. Loose change to get out of my comfort zone.
Details
Book your ticket in advance online at theSri Lanka Railways site to avoid disappointment – and discomfort.
Board the train at Kandy Railway Station – one of the country’s major stations served by Sri Lanka Railways – located in the city centre and arrive 30 minutes prior to departure.
The writer was a guest of Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority.