Anchorage and the mountains beyond.

Anchorage and the mountains beyond.

Sail on in

Ships weave their way through a series of ragged-edged islands and narrow channels into Whittier,which hunkers under the Chugach Mountains,while Seward sits deep inside slowly narrowing Resurrection Bay. The approach to either is a wonderful sight of snow-capped mountains,humped hills and abundant screeching seabirds. The scenery isn’t as outsized or dramatic as in some Alaskan ports,but is still well worth a position on the open deck.

Berth rites

Whittier Cruise Ship Terminal is inconsequential,but you’ll find a few cafes and shops in the tiny town. Seward Cruise Ship Terminal is just as modest,but Seward is bigger,with several hotels and restaurants and the terrific Alaska SeaLife Centre,which showcases creatures such as puffins,sea lions,seals and octopus. The most enjoyable way to get to Anchorage is by train on the Alaska Railroad,but you can take road transfers too.

Before and after

Stay in Anchorage a night,or two,depending on your flight arrival time. Brand hotels such as Hilton,Marriott and Sheraton are all represented. A good choice of small hotels and B&Bs provide alternatives – try Copper Whale Inn or Wildflower Inn.

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A scenic cycle … The Tony Knowles Cycling Trail.

A scenic cycle … The Tony Knowles Cycling Trail.

Going ashore

Your must-see is the world-class Anchorage Museum,which gives an overview of Alaskan history in exhibits that run from native artefacts and clothing to recreations of gold-rush and settler cabins,and life on an oil rig. Alaska Zoo features animals such as polar bears,musk ox and wolves that you mightn’t otherwise see up close. The Alaska Aviation Heritage Museum is also interesting. Oomingmak Producers Co-op is a good place to shop for knitwear.

Don’t miss

The Alaskan Native Heritage Centre just outside town rounds up the indigenous heritage of 11 native groups with demonstrations of dance,music and craft making. Recreated dwellings give insight into native life,with cultural hosts standing by to answer questions.

Get active

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Ideally you won’t spend much time in Whittier except to transfer onto your ship,but you can kayak and jet ski on the sound,and hike trails that give views of glaciers,mountains and waterfalls. Seward too has some scenic hiking. Anchorage meanwhile has more than 200 kilometres of cycle ways,the best of which is the 11-kilometre Tony Knowles Coastal Trail,which showcases the city’s splendid setting.

Best bites

Take the chance to enjoy fresh Alaskan seafood,especially salmon,halibut,oysters and king crab,as well as other local produce such as reindeer sausages,elk and bison. Among the best seafood restaurants are Jen’s Restaurant,Marx Bros Cafe and Orso. Anchorage has surprising ethnic diversity,so you can also take your pick of Filipino,Russian,Cajun and various African and Asian restaurants.

Further afield

Vast wilderness is all around and shore excursions will take you into it,whether on a glacier cruise in Prince William Sound or a tour into the Chugach Mountains for panoramic views over the city,snow peaks and ocean. Pre- or post-cruise land tours will take you further afield for stays in wilderness lodges,fly-fishing,wildlife spotting and the chance to see Denali (Mount McKinley),North America’s highest peak.

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