Kotor Old Town.

Kotor Old Town.

Sail on in

If you’re still in bed or loitering over breakfast then you’ve missed one of the greatest sights in sailing. The fjord-looking sunken bay that leads to Kotor winds for 30 kilometres from the open sea between high,barren mountains. You’ll pass initial fortifications,whitewashed villages,holiday apartments and a picture-perfect little island topped with a chapel. From your ship’s upper deck,you’ll see Kotor old town where the bay ends,backed by zigzagging fortifications that run up a steep hillside. Magnificent.

Berth rites

In theory there is a small terminal building,but you won’t be in it. Passengers disembark straight onto the quay and in quick time are out through the restricted area’s gates,just across the road – or rather under it for those sensible enough to use the underpass – from the old town. Take a left and just across a bridge you’ll find a new part of town with a supermarket and small mall.

Going ashore

Kotor is a modestly sized but wonderful World Heritage-listed town with high walls that enclose mostly medieval buildings. It’s car free,and you’ll have an agreeable time getting lost in a labyrinth of alleyways that occasionally open into small piazzas. Keep looking up so you don’t miss gargoyles,winged lions and architectural details such as pointed Gothic windows. You can walk part of the walls for views of rooftops on one side and the bay on the other.

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Don’t miss

If you like kitsch,cuteness and eccentric museums you should hardly miss the Cats Museum,which costs a mere €1 ($1.70). The traditional sight is however the 1166 St Tryphon’s Cathedral topped by added baroque towers. Most people only admire the outside,but the altar screen is beautiful,and so is the fine display of bejewelled reliquaries.

Get active

Just behind the old town,1300 steps led up the cliff to St John’s Fort. Go in the early morning to avoid the heat. If you haven’t burst your lungs,you’ll be rewarded by spectacular views over Kotor Bay and surrounding mountains. For a less heart-banging alternative,turn left off the ship and stroll for an hour along the waterfront:not great at first,but soon opening to an agreeable cafe-lined promenade and pretty water outlooks.

Retail therapy

Kotor had its origins in a Roman trading port and the town grew rich on Mediterranean trade. The old town isn’t selling salt cod and spices these days,but you can have an agreeable time browsing its many boutiques and souvenir stores. Wood carving,embroidery,pottery and lace are local specialities.

Further afield

Unless you’ve been before,you have no need to go anywhere else,although you could do a half-day in the old town and the classic half-day shore excursion along the bay to baroque town Perast and its island,capped by Our Lady of the Rocks church. Many other destinations are accessible from Kotor,including Montenegro’s old royal capital Cetinje,and seaside resort Budva. The road to Cetinje,known as the Kotor Serpentine,has a section with 25 hairpin bends that will test your nerves as it provides a parachutist’s view over the landscape.

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