Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head in Hawaii.Credit:delamofoto iStock
WHY
Honolulu delivers exactly what you expect of it – a sparkling crescent of colour,kitsch and curling surf. And if you grew up watching endless repeats ofBlue Hawaii andHawaii Five-O you'd be disappointed with anything else. Honolulu is one of the world's most striking cities,a long,slender strip of 400,000 people with beach out the front and a phalanx of extinct volcanoes out the back. It's also supremely easy to navigate (turn left at the beach,turn right at the beach) and has a thoughtful chain of ABC Stores sited every 20 metres,so you're never far from a beer,postcard or T-shirt. Someday all cities will be made this way.
VISIT
The route to Diamond Head Crater,Oahu,Hawaii.Credit:iStock
No matter how many modern hotels get built behind Waikiki Beach,it always looks fabulously 1950s. Embrace it – buy the Aloha shirt,take the ukulele lesson and definitely hire a longboard at $10-$20 an hour (the Waikiki surf is as benign as the island). If you need to get serious,head for Bishop Museum (bishopmuseum.org/),where an imposing piece of late 19th century architecture has been converted to tell Hawaii's story from the time it was first squeezed out of a magma reserve. There's history and art at the beautiful Iolani Palace (iolanipalace.org/),the only royal seat to hold court on American soil. And the profound influence of Chinese sugarcane labourers on Hawaii's racial mix has its roots in the gritty Chinatown.
EAT
One of America's great eating experiences awaits you in Honolulu:whatever else you do,don't miss Uncle Bo's Pupu Bar&Grill (unclebosrestaurant.com). Utterly unprepossessing from the outside (and on a perfectly ordinary street),inside is a space of colour and light and stellar plates of modern Hawaiian cuisine. A few doors up,Leonard's Bakery sells a soft,chewy Portuguese doughnut which has people queuing from 5.30am. At dawn you should do cheerful beachfront breakfast at Lulu's (luluswaikiki.com);at dusk you should flex the plastic for a table at the gorgeous 1927 Royal Hawaiian hotel right on Waikiki.
Missouri battleship in Pearl Harbor,US.Credit:iStock
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