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The Brabo fountain,created in 1887,in Antwerp's Grote Markt.Credit:iStock

WHY

Antwerp is a world-class city packed into the body of a medium-tier one. It's home to a stellar museum collection,the second largest port in Europe,most of the world's diamond trade and globally renowned fashion. But it feels manageably small,occasionally cosy and is often overlooked in favour of cutesier Bruges nearby. Antwerp is Belgium with edge,always looking forward rather than back.

VISIT

Grote Markt in Antwerp by sunset.Credit:iStock

The first museum to be given World Heritage status in its own right,the Museum Plantin-Moretus has had a recent makeover. It's the former home and office of a printing dynasty,and is decorated with chunky tapestries,glorious old furniture and Rubens paintings. But the magic happens downstairs in the print room,which is lined with centuries-old typing blocks and the oldest printing presses on earth. Seemuseumplantinmoretus.be

EAT

Tucked around a courtyard in the historic centre,De Groote Witte Arend is a former convent – and there's still a small chapel on site. It's at its best when serving up traditional Flemish stews,and it has a fantastic beer list full of Trappist and lambic brews from around the country. Seedegrootewittearend.be

Famous Art Deco interior of central hall Antwerp main station.Credit:iStock

LOOK

Sint-Andries,just to the south of the historic centre,is regarded as the fashion district. It's home to some marvellously independent shops that are quite happy to stand out from the herd. Prime among them is top designer Dries van Noten's Modepaleis,where quietly demure doesn't get a look in.See driesvannoten.be

MUST

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries,over two million people passed through Antwerp's port on their way to a new life in North America. The HQ of the Red Star Line,which transported them,is now home to Red Star Line Museum. This tells the stories of those who often gave up all they had on the gamble of life in the US or Canada. It's often heart-breaking,often inspiring,and combines the personal and big picture beautifully. Seeredstarline.be

SLEEP

The Hotel Sandt is a 17th-century mansion lashed with rococo stylings but it goes for a blissed-out,peaceful vibe with a trickling fountain in the central courtyard and white linen draped everywhere. All rooms are suites,with the delightful duplexes boastings sumptuous wrought-iron staircases. Suites cost from €210. Seehotel-sandt.be

TIP

Not many visitors make it to Zurenborg,a residential district to the south-east of the centre,but those who do are blessed by one of the world's greatest collections of art nouveau architecture. Waterloostraat is the best one stop hit for floral motifs and swoony curves.

More information:visitantwerpen.be,visitflanders.com

David Whitley was a guest of Visit Flanders.

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