Emerald City chef Joel Alderdice behind the counter of his four-seat restaurant.Simon Schluter“Once you pull that curtain back,you’ll be like:what the hell is this space?” says Alderdice.
The chef,who just left hattedTarraWarra Estate,dreamed up the project with his landlords Brendan and Kate Cavanagh,owners ofCavanagh’s Whisky and Alehouse,who also asked Alderdice to handle snacks at the front of their venue.
At the back,he’ll be cooking tasting menus for just eight guests each day (12 on weekends),with no additional chefs and no waiters. Diners who want privacy need not apply.
“Once you pull that curtain back,you’ll be like:what the hell is this space?”
Joel Alderdice
But with the intimate size comes a more tailored experience. Although there are matched drinks,if someone prefers beer to wine,Alderdice will pick something especially for that course.
The first bite of his 12-dish menu ($175) is puffed sorghum tossed through Yarra Valley maker Stone&Crow’s butter. It’s a play on popcorn,a nod to the escapism of the tiny curtained-off space.
A raft of snacks at Emerald City.Simon SchluterThen,a raft of snacks arrives,perhaps devilled eggs or a vegan riff on Thailand’s ma hor (pineapple with pork,prawn and shallots).
Diners can add on a smaller version of the “rainbow” trout served at TarraWarra Estate (pictured).Bonnie SavageHis signature “rainbow” rainbow trout from TarraWarra has been remodelled to proportions that fit its new home:trout rillettes instead of a fillet,but with garnishes that are just as technicoloured.
“It’s all these balanced bites that are really exciting. I really like eating that way,with lots of punchy flavours,” says Alderdice.
Larger courses include tempura mushrooms using the latest delivery of fantastic funghi from nearby growers Unearthed Co. Mushrooms,and pork jowl that’s cured,set,and then grilled over a hibachi. Alderdice cooks solely on that and an induction cooktop.
Hibachi-grilled pork jowl with preserved plum.Simon SchluterEmerald City is part of a growing number ofscaled-down restaurants,such as Chae,Greasy Zoes and Matsu,that seat fewer than a dozen guests as owners seek work-life balance,sidestep staff shortages,and pursue better margins.
Alderdice says it’s a smarter way of using spaces to their maximum potential,and reckons more dual-purpose venues like his will come.
Until then,follow the yellow brick road to Healesville.