The prospect of a long lunch at Donovans – a slice of Cape Cod on St Kilda beach – can’t help but inspire the diner to put on her brightest Lilly Pulitzer or his favourite Nantucket Reds. Decorated with coloured cushions,magazine-level furnishings and – crucially – inevitably happy diners,Donovans is more than a reliable Melbourne pleasure:it’s reliable Melbourne bliss. The food tends towards high-end,impeccably executed (though highly priced) comfort food,exemplified by an entree of seared Hervey Bay scallops,truffled cream and potato crisps over which is poured a white asparagus soup of perfect consistency:it feels like first class. Herbal and spice notes are used tastefully:saffron and dill for a risotto with Queensland tiger prawns,yellow peppers and lime;classic tarragon for Donovans’ signature chicken pie. Among desserts,bombe Alaska is a showstopper:a meringue porcupine with hazelnut and chocolate ice-cream on a chocolate biscuit base. Service is impeccable.

And … Arriving early for a fireside drink is always a good idea.