Roadtrippers along the Hume Highway have two new destinations worthy of a stop-off.
Jack Cassidy (ex Jackalope) is spearheading All Saints Estate's new flagship restaurant,Kin,which opened over summer as part of a multimillion dollar facelift of the historic winery in the Rutherglen region.
Replacing Terrace Restaurant,Kin's interior nods to the estate's famous red-brick castle,with brickwork that hugs three eye-catching booths,stone floors and other earthy touches.
Cassidy,who says he's aiming for"country refinement"in his food,is speaking the local language with a menu that features Murray cod,ricotta made with Corowa Dairy milk,and a durif-laced sorbet paired with Italian meringue and local strawberries.
Mount Ophir Estate,part of the All Saints stable,is providing a steady supply of stone fruit,including apricots that are used in a trifle-like dessert and also a hot sauce for Bonnie,the more casual restaurant at All Saints.
Kin's two- and three-course set menus are changing frequently but Cassidy says a crowd favourite is an original take on surf and turf:scallop crudo and taramasalata emulsion with torched house-made guanciale (pork jowl).
Further north,Albury's main street is now home to a magic show of the culinary kind,with South African chef Chris De Jongh using swirls,bubbles,syringes and smoke across a degustation menu atGlenbosch on Dean.
The border city outpost of the Beechworth winery combines cellar door with a 44-seat restaurant,where De Jongh shows off his molecular gastronomy tricks.
The nine-course menu currently includes a"buzz button"– a Sichuan peppercorn flower that's paired with strawberry"caviar"– and a bread course with a biltong and bone marrow candle,with onion"soil"and onion marmalade on the side.
"I love surprising people and taking them out of their comfort zone,"De Jongh says.
Kinopen Thu-Sun noon-3.30pm,Sat from 6pm,205 All Saints Road,Wahgunyah,allsaintswine.com.au
Glenbosch on Dean open Wed-Sat noon-9.30pm,453 Dean Street,Albury,glenbosch.com.au