The Lambington.
1/7The Lambington.Supplied
Bread and butter.
2/7Bread and butter.Tom Wholohan
Shiitake risotto with kombu.
3/7Shiitake risotto with kombu.Tom Wholohan
Crab cappelletti with finger lime.
4/7Crab cappelletti with finger lime.Tom Wholohan
Bakewell tart with Davidson plum.
5/7Bakewell tart with Davidson plum.Tom Wholohan
The view from the dining room.
6/7The view from the dining room.Tom Wholohan
The tonal interiors.
7/7The tonal interiors.Tom Wholohan
Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$$

The MCA’s postcard views now with considered dining to match.

In the middle of 2024,glitzy Melbourne-based events company The Big Group was announced as the new hospitality partner for the MCA’s food offerings. This included the level-four cafe – the one with a terrace and Circular Quay views – and that space has since been transformed into Canvas by way of Scando-style design and modernist Clement Meadmore furniture.

Edinburgh-born chef James Scott leads the kitchen,and we’re happy to see some love for the Bakewell tart,England’s answer to “how delicious can shortcrust pastry,frangipane and raspberry jam possibly be?”

Scott’s other dishes swerve more into the modern,such as bluefin tuna tiled with compressed watermelon and radish,and whipped goat’s cheese with refreshing little Granny Smith balls,candied walnuts and vibrant wedges of beetroot. The “Lambington” is a highlight,featuring rose-pink lamb loin enveloped by haggis (a lusty ground mix of sheep lungs,liver,heart and oats),spinach-green crepe and rough-puff pastry.

Notably,the hospitality and wine service are also two cuts above most other gallery restaurants in Australia.

Good to know: Three courses will set you back north of $110,but the price includes sourdough from Pyrmont’s PiOiK Bakery,extra crunchy roast spuds and a smartly dressed leaf salad.

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Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in theGood Food Guide.

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