Cervo
CervoSupplied

13/20

Italian$$

Cervo is Italian for deer,which explains the wall-mounted stag's head,the monochrome deer mural,and the timber-clad hunting-lodge feel of this Northbridge newcomer. It also explains a delicate starter of paper-thin venison carpaccio,deftly touched with tarragon emulsion. But that's where the connection ends and a likeable combination of classic Italian favourites and not-so-classic pizzas begins. A roast lamb and tzatziki,a chicken tandoori and a crisp,American-inspired barbecue'carne'pizza topped with ham,salami,chorizo and smoky barbecue sauce all work surprisingly well,in a non-Italian,new-Australian way. The cured meats plate is generous and well presented;golden arancini are fat with mushroom and mozzarella;and braised lamb shoulder is pulled,shredded,and formed into a giant polpettone (meatball) that melts in the mouth. Servings tend to be big,staff bustle,and desserts stick to the classics - panna cotta,tiramisu - with no real surprises. But then,that's why they're classics.

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