“Music was a big part of Automata[Wells’ now-closed Chippendale restaurant]. There’s nothing like customers holding their phones up to Shazam a song.”
Wells is better known at the pointy end of Sydney dining,with the new natural wine bar part of his brief in a roaming creative culinary director role at Public Hospitality Group. Public has taken the cafe site at Oxford House and rebirthed it as Busby’s,which takes its name from convict-built Busby’s Bore – which moved water from the Centennial Park area to the city – and travels under the venue.
Working with Busby’s head chef Brendan Bullock,Wells explains their approach to writing the menu came from a less-travelled direction:“Lots of chefs create dishes and let the drinks follow,[but] here drinks are the starting point.”
Spicy jalapeno dressings that might overpower the natural wines don’t get a look-in. The duo match tuna crudo with grilled watermelon and kefir cream,a chicken liver parfait is paired with spiced pineapple and liquorice,and heirloom tomatoes are paired with blackberries and a mustard oil dressing.
“The music shouldn’t be interrupted,” says Public’s director of hospitality,Stefano Catino,who has helped assemble a team with gold disc potential.
Mike Bennie of P&V Merchants has pulled together a strong wine-by-the-glass list from Australian,French and Italian producers. Maybe Sammy’s Paolo Maffietti was recruited to create a “short and punchy” cocktail list.
“As a natural wine and hi-fi bar,we focus on flavour and origin of ingredients,and our cocktails embody Busby’s cool,laid-back feel,” Catino says. And there’s the music,which Catino gives a wide brief of post-punk,with residency and regulars DJs at the turntable.
Taking inspiration from Bambino in Paris and Bar Sway in Berlin,the former cafe space has been given a makeover,taking on claret tones and a moodier feel. Wells has also been working on a menu update at Oxford House’s Pool Bar,with more crudo and even a poke bowl in the works.
“At Busby’s,the menu is more than just food and drinks;it’s a journey through music and flavours,” Wells says.