When Rosa Cienfuegos made the leap from Mexico City to Sydney to live closer to her father,she loved the lifestyle and diversity of her new hometown. But there was one thing missing:her beloved Mexican food.
"At the time,Sydney was not known for its Mexican cuisine and Mexican ingredients were virtually impossible to find,"she says in her new collection of recipes,Comida Mexicana.
Fortunately,her father worked as a chef and was able to share his skills and knowledge as she set out to cook the flavours and dishes of her homeland. After months of experimenting and cooking at home with family and friends,the pair opened their own Mexican restaurant,El Cuervo Cantina.
The venue didn't last but it did open a door to catering opportunities and a pop-up food stall at a neighbourhood market.
Cienfuegos quickly gained a cult following,earning the nickname of Sydney's"tamale queen"and leading to the launch ofSydney's first tamaleria in the city's inner west,where she serves Mexican street food inspired by her upbringing.
Below,Cienfuegos shares three dishes from her newcookbook that anyone can make at home,plus how to make your own tortillas,classic guacamole and three incredible salsas.
Most ingredients can be found at your local supermarket;Latin American ingredients can be sourced from specialty grocers and online suppliers.
Like many capital cities,Mexico City is a place where cultures and people collide,and nowhere is this collision more clearly seen than in the city's food. Tacos al pastor were the result of immigrants arriving from the Middle East in the 1960s,bringing with them lamb shawarma and gyros and,of course,the vertical grill. Once settled,the lamb was swapped for pork and beef,and Mexican spices and chillies,such as achiote and guajillo,were added. Pita breads became corn tortillas and a pineapple was added to the spit so the sweet juice could run down into the meat as it cooked. Tacos al pastor are always served in double tortillas with finely chopped onion and coriander,freshly squeezed lime juice and spicy salsa.
INGREDIENTS
Toppings
METHOD
NoteAchiote – Sold in small blocks from specialty shops or online,this paste made from annatto seeds is often used to give a radiant colour and sour flavour to food. It is one of the signature ingredients of Yucatan cuisine.
Makes 20
Fresh,greasy and filled with Oaxaca cheese or your favourite filling,quesadillas fritas are off-the-scale delicious,yet are surprisingly easy to make. I love eating these delicious morsels as much as I love making them. It reminds me of being back in kindergarten getting my hands messy with playdough.
I recommend using white or yellow masa flour as the hot oil brings out the rich flavour of the masa,giving you a heavenly aftertaste with every quesadilla.
To serve
Makes10
In Mexico,freshly made empanadas are sold at panaderias'(bakeries) morning,noon and night. Perfect for feeding a crowd and with a range of fillings,they are a popular,cheap and tasty snack that everyone loves. This recipe comes from my mum,so,of course,I think it's the best. It also makes a great taco filling. Tuna empanadas are traditionally eaten at Easter but I personally like to enjoy them all year round!
There is no doubt that handmade tortillas are far superior to store-bought versions,plus they are fun to make. They also enable you to use yellow,white or blue masa flour. Even though nixtamal (the process of soaking and cooking corn in limewater) is the traditional and most authentic way to make masa,it's very labour-intensive. Store-bought masa is absolutely fine to use and the results are pretty much the same. You will need a tortilla press to make tortillas. You can easily pick one up at your local Latin American supermarket or online.
Makesabout 20 corn tortillas
In Mexico City,food vendors make fresh salsa taquera at their stalls using a huge mortar and pestle. With its strong aroma of freshly pounded chillies,customers are enticed in to order tacos topped with this spicy,heavenly sauce. Every stall has their own recipe and Mexican people rate their favourite taco stand based on how good their salsa is.
Makesabout 250ml
Salsas are one of the most important accompaniments in Mexican cuisine,and salsa verde is probably the most popular,with its the tangy flavour of green tomatillos mixed with fresh chilli. It's also my favourite salsa.
Fresh tomatillos are one of the ingredients Mexican expats miss most,but tinned tomatillos are readily available and are nearly as good. You will find them at Latin American supermarkets or online.
Makesabout 250ml (1 cup)
Chipotle chillies have long been loved in Mexico,but today they are hugely popular the world over. Chipotle chillies are dried jalapenos and their fragrant aroma and smoky taste make a wonderful addition to any number of dishes. It's definitely my favourite chilli and a must-have in my pantry. This salsa recipe is very simple make and goes well with tacos,as a marinade for meats or as a base for more complex dishes.
Makes about 750 ml
When I was a child,I remember my dad loved to eat guacamole and chicharron rolled up in a taco. Now,of course,guacamole is everywhere,most commonly eaten as a dip with tortilla chips. It's actually extremely easy to make;it just depends on the avocados you use. In Mexico,we are lucky enough to have a huge variety of avocados at our disposal,but outside of the country there is less choice. I recommend using hass or fuerte avocados,as they are large,creamy and easy to peel.
Makes 500g
This is an edited extract fromComida Mexicana by Rosa Cienfuegos,published by Smith Street Books,RRP$45. Photography by Alicia Taylor. Food styling by Deborah Kaloper.Buy now
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