“It’s all about the theatre,the grandeur of a massive bit of steak,” says butcher Troy Wheeler.Christopher PearceWhat exactly is it?
“A true tomahawk is a beef rib-eye[or scotch fillet] on the bone,with the full length of the rib bone … that goes right to the end of the brisket cartilage,” Wheeler says. It’s a huge steak,usually between 30 and 40 centimetres in length,and two to 2.2 kilograms in weight. Sometimes the short-rib meat is left on the bone,other times it’s scraped clean.
What’s the allure?
It’s unsurprising that a steak named after an axe (because it resembles one) is favoured for its showpiece-worthy size and servability. “I reckon it’s all about the theatre,the grandeur of a massive bit of steak that’s carved up and[becomes] the centrepiece of the table,” Wheeler says. “I think[it’s] a bit overrated.” But why?
It’s expensive – and you’re paying for the bone
A tomahawk is one of the more exxy cuts you see at restaurants and butcher shops. Because a rib-eye is expensive in itself,when there’s a long bone added,and you’re paying by weight,it jacks up the price. “I don’t think people realise that,” Wheeler says. “I have this conversation with customers a lot.” Meatsmith charges around $55 a kilo for a tomahawk,which means they’re $150-odd apiece. It can be double or even pushing triple that in restaurants for a steak you can’t even eat in its entirety.
With their combination of rib-eye (top) and short rib (side),tomahawk steaks are difficult to cook.Chirstopher PearceCooking it well is no mean feat
A fair bit of care and consideration is needed to nail the cooking of a tomahawk at home,particularly if short rib is involved. “On one side of the bone is a rib-eye you want to have medium or medium-rare,with a shorter cooking time … like 20 minutes. The other end is essentially short rib that’s best cooked or smoked slowly and longer,” Wheeler says.
“A lot of people do the reverse sear:cook at a low temp – maybe 48 degrees – for a few hours then seal it off to give it a crust all over. If it’s your first time cooking one,if you’re just looking for novelty,it’d be pretty easy to stuff it up.”
Wheeler adds:“It seems to be a fairly blokey thing. The guys get on the barbecue with this humungous piece of meat.”
So,leave it to the experts,rookie cooks
If you’re hell-bent on eating a tomahawk – but you’re not a confident cook – your best bet is to order it at a restaurant or steakhouse you know will prepare it to perfection.
But there are better bang-for-your-buck cuts
“A slightly more economical alternative is the T-bone,” says Wheeler. He recommends thick-cut,channelling the famous Tuscan steak dish bistecca alla Fiorentina. Slicing up a sizeable T-bone – between 1.2 and 1.5 kilos – is similar to the tomahawk experience.
So,is a tomahawk worth it?
“I’d rather just have the two individual cuts on their own,” says Wheeler,preferring to scrap the tomahawk theatrics in favour of taking the rib-eye and short rib separately. They’re better value,easier to cook,and you don’t have to contend with the bone.