According to the oracle of food science,Harold McGee,salt strengthens the impression of accompanying aromas and suppresses the sensation of bitterness.
Salt also draws moisture out of living cells – plant and protein – via osmosis,which is why it’s used both to break down the cell structure of vegetables such as eggplant to make it easier to fry (while mitigating any natural bitterness),and helps denature the proteins in dishes like cured egg yolks andgravlax.
Salt’s physical shape also determines how it’s experienced on the tongue,so a flatter,flaked or pyramid-shaped salt is perfect for finishing dishes so that each bite is met with bits of brininess on the tongue.
If you’ve seasoned at the start,it pays to finish with another flaky flutter just before serving. Each person’s palate varies,so “season to taste” means to your own,or slightly under. Then you can have flaky salt on the table for others to adjust to their liking.
When eating out,or in,for that matter,remember to taste a dish before adding more salt at the table – it’s just good eaters’ etiquette.
Welcome to Ask Alice
Ask Alice is our new guide to cooking,entertaining and eating out from Alice Zaslavsky. Zaslavsky is the award-winning author of international best-seller and James Beard finalist In Praise of Veg,kids’ fun food bibleAlice’s A to Z,and cooking confidence unlockerThe Joy of Better Cooking. She is the long-time culinary correspondent for ABCNews Breakfast and ABC Radio,and host ofSaturday Breakfast on ABC Radio Melbourne.
Send questions and conundrums to her atalice@aliceinframes.com