Pleats,fringes,flower power:winter trends take shape on the runway

It’s been a big seven days in Australian fashion. There’s beencontroversy over a design award,the return of a catwalk favouriteafter a 15-year absence,and industry darling Zimmermann showing on the runways ofParis Fashion Week. Here are the week’s top trends and moments,as viewed from the front row at the Melbourne Fashion Festival by fashion editorMelissa Singer.

Western front

In fashion,three’s a trend,and that’s what parade-goers got on Wednesday night,at the Power runway at the Melbourne Fashion Festival. The normally minimalist sustainable label,Arnsdorf,provided some thrill in the form of fringed jackets and pants,while Paris-based expatMartin Grant (presented by luxury boutique Christine Melbourne) offered aTombstone feel to plum capes and millinery by Maison Michel and Philip Treacy. On Tuesday,Melbourne brandTorannce took a loftier route,pairing monochromatic prairie dresses and knitted ponchos with cowboy hats and chunky belts. But it was suit subversivesReignerandAnna Cordellthat brought the house down on Friday night with their rock ’n’ roll-inspired looks,with more than a little Country.

Indigenous fashion ‘steps in’

A trendwe’re seeing at fashion weeks,although one that’s still a hot topic,is the integration of Indigenous-owned brands on the schedule,rather than in a dedicated show. On Monday,Maara Collective led the First Nations designers on the festival runway,followed byYanggurdi,Nungala Collective,Haus of Dizzy,Ginny’s Girl Gang,Amber Days andGammin Threads,all of which were in Thursday’s Urban Oasis show. In a fitting finale,Paul McCann,of“gumnut gown” fame,closed the week with a specially commissioned gown by festival sponsor PayPal.

Flower power

Just hours after Chanelshowed a collection in Paris in which its signature flower,the camellia,featured heavily,two local powerhouse designers inJason Grech and millinerRichard Nylon delivered the collaboration of the Melbourne Fashion Festival,with Grech’s wet-look evening gowns in highlighter pinks and yellows adorned with Nylon’s oversized floral creations. It made many in the front row wonder how these two had never come together before which,in essence,is the mark of a winning collaboration. More,please.

The people’s festival

This year,the festival returned to its rightful home,the Royal Exhibition Buildings in Carlton,and with that,the street style went into top gear. Leaving aside those who were paid or sponsored for the mere act of turning up,plenty of ticket-holders held court in the forecourt with an array of looks. What was new this year:the sheer number of people proudly spruiking their latest thrift finds,as well as plenty turning gendered stereotypes on their head.

Accordion to this

Pleats never really go out of style (though the number of craftspeople in the country is at shocking lows,butthat’s another story) but they were given a fresh face on the runway by Adelaide outfitAcler and Melbourne’sAsiyam,which has been making headway in the modesty-dressing space. Founder Asia Hassan,who is Muslim and a social worker,makes her pieces in bold sorbet shades of strawberry and lime,as if to say,no,you don’t have to fade into the shadows just because you prefer to cover up.

Green screen

Fashion weeks worldwide are trying to confront their inherent conundrum,that is,encouraging consumption,by integrating sustainable initiatives as well as a “buy well,buy less” approach toinvestment dressing. And while some questioned the festival’spartnership with discount store Kmart,it was pleasing to see the week kick off with an all-vintage runway,while upcycled labelMoss Tunstall became the first such brand to star in a premium runway in the festival’s 27-year history.

Faces of the future

He may have missed out on theNational Designer Award butJordan Gogos,whose art-cum-couture featured in the closing runway on Saturday night,is unquestionably one of the faces to watch in the Australian fashion industry. As he prepares to launch his ready-to-wear label,fashion pundits are bracing for his pieces,which are tipped to become instant collectibles. Other bright sparks on the student runway includedKritikon Khamsawat,who in December won the Australian Fashion Foundation prize.

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