What did you do as a teenage model that you wouldn’t do now?
I was 15 when I started modelling. I grew up in working-class northern England and the future didn’t look particularly bright and sparkly,so I jumped at the opportunity to become a model and travel the world. At that age,I wasn’t able to stand up for myself and say no to shoots that made me feel uncomfortable. I thought that if I did,I would be sent back home.
When Kate Moss did her famous shoot forThe Face,she was 15 and topless. It’s a beautiful image,but I can’t help but think that she’s a teenage girl. I had similar experiences. During one of my first shoots in Paris,aged 16,I was naked. I have a 16-year-old daughter now and I wouldn’t allow her to do that,yet I was in that situation. At the time I wanted to be accepted and wanted people to like me. I wanted to succeed. As a 43-year-old woman,I want to see a mood board beforehand and have a good idea of the clothes they want me to wear. Part of being a good model back then was about being spontaneous. As I got older,I got more protective of myself.
Romance Was Born dress,$720. Earrings (worn throughout),stylist’s own.Manolo Campion
Why is model advocacy such a passion project for you?There is no union or overseeing committee in the modelling world,except for the work of the Model Alliance in New York. Models have a right to feel safe and secure. I am very passionate about these things.
I did a shoot once in a makeshift swimming pool that looked green,so they poured bleach in it. One by one,all of the models ended up in the hospital because we had chemical burns. I walked off set and took myself to emergency. Later that evening,my agent at the time called me to tell me that we had to send flowers and write a letter to apologise. My thing is to not overly criticise the industry,but to say let’s do something about it. Let’s create scaffolding and a framework so that when talent goes on set we know what we’re getting paid,we know we are safe and valued.
Has modelling learnt from the #MeToo movement?Not everybody is a predator or out to rip you off,but the mentality in the fashion industry hasn’t changed a lot over the years. One thing I have done privately is have one-to-one discussions with people in the business,and in light of the #MeToo movement,to speak up. From fashion editors saying unkind things about my body to photographers standing next to me while I am naked,I tell them directly when I have a problem with that. Talent mixed with power,fame and infamy can create a troubling,toxic mix.
Gucci jacket,$5400,pants,$2050,and gloves,$2175.Manolo Campion
You have a new love in your life. How is that working out?I have kept a lot of my post-divorce relationships on the down low,just because being a mother was my priority. For a while,any relationship I had was outside of Nashville – I kept things at an arm’s length. I met Adam Ross through my kids,as our children know one another. He’s a brilliant novelist and editor-in-chief of American literary journal The Sewanee Review. I was ready to let him in and wanted a grounded relationship in Nashville. He gave me Robert Hughes’The Fatal Shore to read in Australia for my Semi Permanent festival appearance[in May]. I’m never at a loss for a good book dating a novelist. He’s a solid,smart and steadfast individual.
Any new fashion labels you love? I used to be massively into vintage and scoured the vintage stores,but now nothing stresses me out more! I really like Another Tomorrow. There is a QR code on each label that shows you where the garment comes from and every step of the process[of making it]. They create modern,utilitarian outfits.
Jordan Dalah dress,$2400.Manolo Campion
What’s a career pinch-me moment? Working with the late Alexander McQueen on his Spring 2004 runway show,based on the filmThey Shoot Horses,Don’t They. That was a real pinch-me moment.
Is there a recent loss in the world of fashion you can’t get over? Definitely[former Lanvin creative director] Alber Elbaz. He was someone I cared about,a real friend. It affected me because I didn’t get a chance to say goodbye.
What life advice do you live by? It’s very simple – whenever I have a struggle or go through difficult times,I always remind myself that this too shall pass. I am a big believer of putting one foot in front of the other and remembering that tomorrow is a new day. I have always believed in myself and in my industry,even though I have had people say “You’re over” or “This biz is done for you” or tell me they don’t believe in my music. The faith I have in my dreams catapults me and it’s not easy,but those who have faith find a way.
Describe your personal style. In Nashville,I am very casual in jeans and T-shirts. But then I jump on a plane to go somewhere fabulous and need multiple suitcases filled with dresses and can’t decide what to pack. As I get older,the less I care about trends. If it looks good and feels good,I am down with it.
Common Hours mini dress,$4400. Gucci shoes,$1600.Manolo Campion
When do you most feel your age? When I look at TikTok videos of cute animals and my kids tell me to turn it down because I’m embarrassing them.
If you could do a duet with anyone,who would you choose?Stevie Nicks or Cher. I got to meet Cher at the Met Gala. She commented on a crazy Dolce&Gabbana red and gold ornate dress I was wearing – she grabbed me to say,“I love your dress.” I felt like I had been anointed.
What appealed to you about coming to Sydney to speak at Semi Permanent? I had released my memoir,The Red Flame in 2020 and I loved that an ideas festival like Semi Permanent had reached out to me and wanted me to share insights into my creative process. I am leaning more into those spaces on top of what I do,because I want to use my voice in a meaningful and impactful way.
Hair,Daren Borthwick using Oribe;Make-up,Linda Jefferyes using Charlotte Tilbury;Styling assistant,Emerson Conrad.
Karen Elson’s albumGreen is out now.
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