When most people think of Melbourne,they don’t think of beaches. However,several sandy playgrounds on Port Phillip Bay can be easily accessed from the CBD – by the city’s iconic transport option,the tram. And each beach is close to great cafes,bars and restaurants,producing a two-for-one bayside treat.
Tram 109 to Port Melbourne Beach,Tram 1 from South Melbourne Beach
I’m catching the number 109 tram to the beaches of Port Melbourne,but first I’m following a cafe tip (this is Melbourne,after all). Alighting at the second-last stop at Graham Street,I walk to Vertue Coffee Roasters. It’s an archetypal third-wave cafe,with a concrete floor offset by bright blue tabletops – and five choices of coffee including an excellent single-origin from Rwanda,which I enjoy as a long black.
Then I head on foot to Station Pier,once the destination of postwar migrant ships and now used by cruise liners. There’s a hint of Gold Coast about this area,with its modern high-rise apartment buildings,waterside restaurants,and plentiful palm trees.
East of the pier is Port Melbourne Beach,a broad stretch of golden sand where people are sunbathing. The footpath above it is flanked by historical memorials and street art,making for a pleasant walk. At some point the sands become South Melbourne Beach,and I reach my goal:the Bleakhouse Hotel,a renovated 19th century pub whose name comes from a Dickens novel. It’s next to the terminus of tram number 1,so I’ll head back to the city from here.
The pub’s dining room has a bay view,and a menu ranging from pub classics to fancier dishes. A starter of hummus with toasted walnuts,olives,and sumac yoghurt,is followed by fish and chips accompanied by “posh peas”;and a pint of Stomping Ground lager. Perfect beachside food.
Tram 12 to St Kilda West Beach and Middle Park Beach