It is a speciality of Gotland,Sweden’s largest island,which sits off the Swedish coast in the Baltic Sea. Its main town,Visby,with a population of less than 40,000,is a popular cruise port in summer.
That’s how I first came to discoversaffranspannkakaand Visby itself,which must be the most beautiful town in the world that you’ve never heard of. Known as the “city of roses” for its preserved medieval houses covered with climbing roses in summer,it’s surrounded by a mostly intact 12th-century ringed wall and fortifications and sits high on limestone cliffs overlooking a deep harbour.
You can get there by ferry from the mainland but most tourists who aren’t Swedish or German arrive on cruise ships. In summer,where the weather is a little cooler than in Stockholm,the narrow cobblestoned lanes are full of visitors admiring the pretty houses,the ruins of ancient churches,the botanic gardens and the spectacular sea views from the many hilltop lookouts.
They’re also sitting in the sun in Visby’s many charming cafes,eating saffron and honey ice-cream on the ramparts and shopping for chic homewares and Swedish-design clothing in its upscale boutiques.
When I first visited in 2019,I became instantly smitten with the town. Not only is it picture-book gorgeous,it also has a fascinating history. If you’re mad about Vikings,as I am,this is the place.
There’s a greater density of Viking hoards on the island than anywhere else on earth. More than 350 Viking graves were found in a burial ground south of Visby harbour and treasure dating back to AD 870 has been found buried in schoolyards and under the wooden floors of warehouses.