MARY RIVER FLOODPLAINS
Paperbark woodland and vast expanses of wetland meet to spectacular effect around the Mary River,one of Australia's most significant ecosystems and home to more than 200 bird species,including stunning numbers of magpie geese,egrets and ibis. Sea eagles perch atop dead trees and carpets of waterlilies unfold. A sunset trip into the wetlands by airboat,as the scenery turns orange and pink,is one of Australia's great experiences. Seenorthernterritory.com
LORDS SAFARIS
If visiting Arnhem Land by yourself sounds too tricky,then private small-group tour company Lords will arrange permits,cross rivers,avoid crocodiles,lead you to solitary rock-art sights,organise itineraries and pour wine,all in the company of an exceedingly knowledgeable driver-guide. Co-owner Sab Lord was born on what is now Kakadu National Park land,and there is little he and fellow guide Dean Hoath don't know about the region's landscapes,nature and Indigenous life. Seelords-safaris.com
NHULUNBUY
Arnhem Land's largest town,sitting on the Gove Peninsula,Nhulunbuy is a centre for fishing safaris as anglers set out to pit wits and strength against giant barramundi. Coral trout,red emperor,mackerel and marlin are other prizes. The town is surrounded by glorious beaches (though there's no swimming) and rugged landscapes offering beautiful places to camp. Macassan Beach has interesting remains from interaction with Indonesian traders. Seeeastarnhemland.com.au
MOUNT BORRADAILE
Wonderfully remote without being too inaccessible,this Aboriginal sacred site is a scenic outcrop of escarpment fringed by billabongs,wetlands and paperbark forest. Overhangs that sheltered Indigenous people for tens of thousands of years feature a stunning array of rock art,including a fabulous rainbow serpent,animals,handprints,contact art and totemic figures. In Kakadu you'll have to share such sights;here,you're the only one around. Seearnhemland-safaris.com
BAMARRU PLAINS
This eco-friendly,luxury lodge on a working buffalo station on the Mary River floodplains immerses you in the landscape and among the wildlife,with wallabies hopping beyond your windows and innumerable birds wheeling in the sky. Happily,there is no phone coverage,no internet and no television,but you do get an infinity pool,excellent meals and daily excursions by airboat or four-wheel-drive in the company of knowledgeable guides. Seebamurruplains.com
INJALAK ARTS
This Indigenous-owned,not-for-profit association in Gunbalanya,about two hours north east of Jabiru,brings together the works of some 200 Arnhem Land artists,screen printers and weavers. If you are after Aboriginal art,you couldn't be in a better place. You can also join comprehensive three-hour guided tours to see the extensive rock-art galleries on Injalak Hill and learn more about the artistic and cultural traditions of the Kunwinjku people. Seeinjalak.com
KAKADU NATIONAL PARK
Take several days to appreciate Kakadu's paperbark-reflecting billabongs,bird-filled wetlands and teetering piles of stone,sandwiched and contorted into odd weathered shapes. Cruise Yellow Water for crocodiles and abundant bird life and hike the escarpments for rock art 40,000 years old. At Ubirr shadowy X-ray outlines in black and red depict fish,turtles and kangaroos,as well as contact art showing a sailing ship and pipe-smoking European sailor. Seeparksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu
The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism NT.