Heroin chic is back. Has the inclusion backlash begun?

Margot Robbie’s rib cage on the cover ofVanity Fair and Jennifer Aniston’s ripped abdomen on US magazineAllure are the ultra-thin edges of the super skinny wedge returning to the front pages and front rows of fashion.

“We are seeing thereturn of heroin chic,and it is being dictated by Hollywood and the Kardashians,” says Australian stylist Mikey Ayoubi,who has worked withVogue Australia and celebrities Jessica Mauboy,Lara Worthington and Hilary Swank. “It comes from a dark place.”

Margot Robbie on the cover of the December/January issue of Vanity Fair in an Alaia dress,and Jennifer Aniston in a Chanel bikini on the cover of the December issue of US magazine Allure.

Margot Robbie on the cover of the December/January issue of Vanity Fair in an Alaia dress,and Jennifer Aniston in a Chanel bikini on the cover of the December issue of US magazine Allure.Mario Sorrenti/Vanity Fair and Zoey Grossman/Allure

Ayoubi spotted the trend on the Paris runways and has watched it develop into the popularity of low-slung pants and cut-outs borrowing from the ’90s and ’00s,when heroin chic originally reared its nodding head on hollow-eyed models.

“We saw it two years ago from brands like Balenciaga,and it wasn’t about reflecting society. It seems to be about doing something to be contrary.”

Reality television star Kim Kardashian appeared in recent advertising campaigns for Balenciaga,attracting attention for her weight loss,which she says was achieved to fit into a dress originallyworn by Marilyn Monroe for the Met Gala. Kardashian’s changing shape has become a symbol of the shift from curvaceous to slim as a feminine ideal.

“There was a brief,shining moment of body positivity,” says anti-diet clinical psychologist and founder ofUntrapped,Louise Adams. “Many people are uncomfortable with inclusion,and we now have a backlash that is excluding people. ”

Skinny styles. Spring-summer ’22/’23 looks from Bally,Miu Miu,Alexander McQueen and Dion Lee.

Skinny styles. Spring-summer ’22/’23 looks from Bally,Miu Miu,Alexander McQueen and Dion Lee.AP,Getty

“I don’t blame Jennifer Aniston or Margot Robbie for having the bodies they have,but it’s the deliberate attention to certain parts of the body that is disturbing. This thin ideal isn’t something that effortlessly happens. These six packs and concave areas are not a natural look.”

Conversations about body diversity,shows devoted to size-inclusive brands and the appearance of plus-size models such as Yumi Nu and Paloma Elsesser in high-profile advertising campaigns has given the impression of progress,but it’s two steps forward and three backin fashion. Skinny models never disappeared,with only three plus-size models currently ranked in the Top 50 on industry websiteModels.com.

Ninety of the 247 brands from the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear season,held in September in New York,London,Milan and Paris,included plus-size models according tofashion search engine Tag walk. In most cases,this was one woman with curves in a sea of sample-sized models.

Bella Hadid’s spray-on dress stunt at the Coperni show at Paris Fashion Week went viral.

Bella Hadid’s spray-on dress stunt at the Coperni show at Paris Fashion Week went viral.Youtube:iDest

Thin models were able to showcase the celebration of Y2K and ’90s-inspired designs,with low-slung pants at Alexander McQueen,abdominal cut-outs at Miu Miu and hip-revealing dresses at Bally. The most viewed look from Paris Fashion Week was model Bella Hadid at Coperni having a dress sprayed onto her thin,nearly naked,form.

“Not everyone feels as though they can engage with these trends,especially when they are not being created in larger sizes,” says Alex Cowen,communications manager for theButterfly Foundation,a not-for-profit organisation that offers support for people who suffer eating disorders as well as educating professionals,teachers and parents. “To have the narrative that your body needs to be pushed towards a certain version is concerning. It’s a massive step backwards.”

“The Butterfly Foundation is nearly 20 years old,and it’s not a stretch to say that the trends of the ’90s and ’00s played a part in it being established.”

“We have more schools seeking our services than ever. After the lockdowns there was a lot of discussion about people’s dissatisfaction with their appearance,” Cowen says,referring to conversations about so-called “COVID-kilos”. “These trends coming out at this time seem to be capitalising on these concerns.”

Model Sarah Kelly appears in The Curve Edit show at Australian Fashion Week in May,wearing an outfit from Harlow.

Model Sarah Kelly appears in The Curve Edit show at Australian Fashion Week in May,wearing an outfit from Harlow.Getty

Plus-size Australian model Sarah Kelly appeared in the first plus-size show at Australian Fashion Week in May and is hopeful the local industry will continue to move towards body diversity.

“It’s still changing and moving forward,but it’s worrying when people like Kim Kardashian,who had all the curves lose so much weight,” Kelly says.

“Today I’ve been looking for low-rise jeans designed for plus-size women,and I’m struggling. But I think people won’t accept it for much longer. If it’s not out there we will do it for ourselves. We are all over social media.”

The presence of Kelly in the fashion industry and visibility of greater body diversity on social media is reassuring,but Adams says that it’s not enough.

“If you’re interested in body diversity on social media,you will see it but if you’re fixating on unhealthy bodies,you will only see that,” Adams says.

“We need to address this thin ideal. The ’90s called,and it’s telling us to snap out if it.”

If you,or anyone you know is experiencing an eating disorder,you can call the Butterfly Foundation National Helpline on 1800 33 4673,e-mailsupport@butterfly.org.au or chat online viabutterfly.org.au

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Damien Woolnough is the style editor of The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age

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