Not the races or a beach club:How tennis style became its own genre

Dress codes can be tricky beasts. Some events,such asDerby Day,are steeped in so much tradition that even the most lay observer probably knows it has something to do with black and white. But what about an event such as the Australian Open,which lacks a road map? How do you even define “tennis style”?

On the court at least,the relationshipbetween tennis and fashion goes back to the late 19th century,when men played in blazers and tailored pants,and women wore corsets and long skirts (try taking a sliding forehand return in a crinoline!). Today,fashion is synonymous with some of the game’s biggest names,such as the now-retiredSerena Williams and Briton Emma Raducanu,who has tie-ins with Tiffany&Co and Dior,as well as Nike. Queenslander Priscilla Hon has also signed a deal with local label Aje Athletica to wear its gear throughout her playing season.

Four sets (from left) Tayla Damir,Rachel Griffiths,Olivia Molly Rogers and Montana Cox show their takes on tennis style.

Four sets (from left) Tayla Damir,Rachel Griffiths,Olivia Molly Rogers and Montana Cox show their takes on tennis style.Getty

So,that’s on-court style in a nutshell. When it comes to punters,the most important thing when choosing an outfit is nailing the level of formality,and that’s based on the ticket you’re holding. Got a ground pass? Shorts and a T-shirt are perfectly acceptable. But,as the Australian Open continues to step up the level of on-site restaurants and VIP marquees,so too does the need to get “dressed” for a day or night at the tennis.

While there may not be as many rules as,say,Flemington,there are some regulations for guests attending sit-down meals before hitting centre court. Thongs are banned,as are ripped jeans,sports shorts and singlets,of the “beach” variety (smart casual sleeveless tops,for women especially,are OK).

Then there are the rules stylists make for their clients. Paul Versace,aka Styled by Bloom,who works with Olivia Molly Rogers,sticks to a three-colour rule for outfits,or it gets too messy. Another tennis formula is mixing athleisure with timeless staples,“for instance,pairing loose linen pants with a sporty crop top. And don’t over-accessorise,” he says.

Actor Paul Mescal at last year’s Australian Open.

Actor Paul Mescal at last year’s Australian Open.Fiona Hamilton/Tennis Australia

If you’re heading to the tennis,and it’s baking,you’ll need a hat,but the Birdcage this is not;opt for a bucket hat in a print by brands such as Lack of Colour or Roame,which handily folds into your bag when you’re out of the sun. For men,a straw hat by Will&Bear is the preferred option. A baseball cap will suffice,but leave the sports brands and sunscreen-streaked hats at home. And,for both sexes,a little hat etiquette:make sure your brim isn’t too broad that the people behind or beside you in the stands are impeded from viewing the match.

Stylist Molly Johnstone,who’s working with the Open’s Champagne sponsor,Piper-Heidsieck,says tennis-goers should embrace the colour of the year,magenta,through accessories. “Elevate your chic tennis look with a pair of statement sunglasses,which are perfect for people-watching ... between matches,” she says. And don’t forget a cover-up for night matches – the temperature can really drop after the sun goes down – so throw a cashmere cardigan in your bag,or tie it across your body for a tennis-club-inspired styling hack. But don’t make your look too “buttoned up”. Keep shirts untucked (unless you’re wearing a high-waisted pant),or layered over a tucked-in T-shirt for a nice balance of neat and casual.

Lauren Nicholls,founder of Stable in Melbourne’s Albert Park,says ticket holders should take advantage of the perfect summer weather with lots of colour. “Matching separates is a big look at the moment. It’s an easy way to look completely done but comfortable. You want to look like you’ve made an effort,but you don’t want to be in a strappy heel – that’s overdone.”

Stilettos be damned,sure,but Nicholls doubles back to say that a statement shoe,be it a sneaker,wedge or loafer,is not only acceptable,it’s encouraged. “Metallic is still a good daytime glam vibe,” she says.

But maybe leave the full-sequinned dress at home. You don’t need a player calling an injury timeout because they’ve been blinded by your disco ball.

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Melissa Singer is national fashion editor of The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age.

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