Adam Liaw's roast pork with mustard gravy and summer fruit chutney.

First,buy your pork from a butcher who cares about where their meat comes from. Pork from female pigs is a better bet than that of male pigs,whose hormone production can result in a particular flavour known as boar taint.

Whether you’re cooking pork belly,boneless pork shoulder,a rack of pork or rolled pork loin,get it out of its packaging as soon as you get it home,and wipe the skin dry with paper towels. Dry skin is the key to great crackling action.

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Perfect pork crackling needs a shocking crunch factor.
Perfect pork crackling needs a shocking crunch factor.Simon Letch

Next,use a knife with a short,sharp blade,such as a Stanley knife,to score the skin at one-centimetre intervals. Cut through the rind without cutting into the meat,which could leak juices that stop the skin from crisping. And make sure you cut right to the edges – basically,you’re creating irrigation channels to enable the rendered fat to run off.

Refrigerate the pork,uncovered,for 24 hours. If you just cursed out loud because you don’t have that sort of time,don’t worry;even an hour or two will help dry out the skin and create more crunch.

Remove from the refrigerator and let the pork come to room temperature.

Heat the oven to 220C fan-forced (240C conventional) and line a roasting pan with baking paper. Rub the pork all over with olive oil,then rub with a goodly amount (up to 1 tablespoon) of sea salt,working it into the cuts.

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Slashing the skin at 1cm intervals helps ensure crunchy crackling.
Slashing the skin at 1cm intervals helps ensure crunchy crackling.William Meppem

Roast the pork for 30 minutes to kick-start the crackling,then turn the temperature down to 170C fan-forced (190C conventional). Roast for 40 minutes per kilogram,or until a meat thermometer inserted into the middle of the thickest part of the meat reads 65C,rotating the pan once or twice to help the pork cook evenly.

Bring the temperature up to 220C fan-forced (240C conventional) again,and give the pork a good blast for 10 minutes. The crackling should be crisp,golden and blistered.

Rest the roast for 10 minutes under a loose sheet of foil. To serve,cut right through the crackling (the scores make it super-easy),which should make so much noise,everyone at the table will stop talking immediately.

Tip

Crackling still not happening? Cut the skin away in one piece while you rest the pork,and give it a blast in the oven at 220C fan-forced (240C conventional) for 10 minutes. Reassemble,carve and enjoy.

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Jill DupleixJill Dupleix is a Good Food contributor and reviewer who writes the Know-How column.

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