Shaw is celebrating five years of Maara Collective this year. She says things have improved for the newer designers coming through. “When I was starting out there was definitely not this level of support[that exists now],” she says. “The fashion industry is challenging and there’s a lot of areas you need to know about.”
Adds Ripper:“It would be good to see more hands-on training than mentoring[for Indigenous designers]. You need people learning how to pattern-make – everything.”
It’s one of the reasons Whadjuk Noongar model Nathan McGuire started Mob in Fashion,which aims to provide career pathways for emerging Indigenous talent,particularly in “behind-the-scenes” roles,such as photography. “We focus on careers,so no one is a flash in the pan,” he says. “We invest our time into people we believe in.”
On Thursday,a group of emerging Indigenous designers,including McGuire and his label,Solid Ochre,will feature in the Emerging Mob in Fashion runway at the Melbourne Fashion Festival.
Ripper,who is styling the show,says each one of the nine designers embodies this slower,more considered approach to building a business,regardless of whether their aspirations are more artistic or commercial.
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He says if designers can progress gradually and upskill,Indigenous fashion can “move beyond the print” and attain a new level of technical prowess. “Our show will be a good example of design coming through …[the audience will] notice the prints are not cliched,” he says.
Trying to lead by example,McGuire took two years to develop his range for Solid Ochre’s runway appearance. Even with his established network of industry connections,he says it came down to the wire. “A little while ago I thought I wasn’t going to be able to make[the deadline],but we’re here.”
The group show follows an appearance by Ngali in Monday’s opening group runway. It is expected at least one Indigenous brand will stage a solo show at Australian Fashion Week when the program is announced next week.
Michelle Maynard,manager of Indigenous Fashion Projects,which supports more than 70 designers,art centres and artists,says both approaches have merit.
“In separate shows,we have full agency,in the way we present the show,bring in emerging talent[and] facilitate a level of immersive storytelling,” she says. “But,equally,the integrated shows …[place] us in equal standing alongside the extraordinary talent in the mainstream industry.”
Ripper says while group shows remain an important vehicle for showcasing emerging talent,solo shows have an obvious impact. “[Ngali] evolved from the Indigenous Fashion Projects[group show],” he says.
“It helps the conversations,and I look forward to seeing who has the next solo show.”
The Emerging Mob in Fashion runway is at the Melbourne Fashion Festival on March 7.mff.com.au.
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