Each menu item is listed alongside a suggested beer pairing from Brick Lane’s catalogue – from the core One Love Pale Ale to exclusive experimental “pilot-batch” brews – but Bowker wants to educate diners on just how flexible marrying beer and food can be.

“Very different beers will complement the same dish,” he explains. “Our light,crisp lager will match an oyster’s freshness. Or the other extreme is a rich,roasty stout that complements its salinity.”

You can try both variations – with freshly shucked oysters – at the stone-clad,15-seat raw bar. Then survey a big glass cabinet full of the day’s seafood selection,on ice. You might find Ora King salmon with smoked ponzu or yuzu-splashed kingfish sashimi.

Beyond seafood,chef Ankit Padmani (ex-Indu,Mejico and Collins Quarter) is serving a market-to-plate menu with Asian flourishes that makes the most of next door’s bounty.

Want to feast? Secure the table with a lazy Susan and share nasu dengaku (miso-glazed eggplant) and pork belly slathered in gochujang and chilli caramel. Or hit the 150-person deck for sips and snacks in the sun,such as charcuterie from market trader Bill’s Farm and sourdough made by Cobb Lane Bakery with Brick Lane beer.

Brick Lane is the most recent in a string of Melbourne breweries upping their food game in a big way. Like Collingwood’sMolly Rose and Reservoir’sLa Sirene,for Bowker,it’s about getting really good at the whole experience.

“It starts with beer,but you have to have a whole range:educated staff to guide you through[food] pairings,and things as simple as fantastic glassware,which is different for different beers.”

Open daily 11.30am-late.

Upstairs,456 Queen Street,Melbourne,bricklanebrewing.com/brick-lane-market