Every suburb has a Chinese restaurant,but not every suburb is lucky enough to have one with someone clever in the kitchen. It looks ordinary enough - white walls with eclectic decorations,round white paper-covered tables - but wait until the plates drop. Spicy cumin lamb backstraps for instance,has flavour and heat in spades. Padang-style dry beef rendang will please the pickiest rendang buff,and caramelised eggplant in a Chingkiang vinegar-based sauce is memorable. All the suburban Chinese specialities are there if you want them - but so is a brilliant Buddhist vegetarian hotpot. Go with a group and share.