Best cellar doors
Regional pioneer Wynns Coonawarra Estate,where wine has been made since 1897,has opened an interpretive centre that takes wine enthusiasts on an interactive and educational journey through the history of the region,viticulture and winemaking. There is also the chance to create your own blend (for a $55 fee) and to sample some rare individual vineyard wines and back vintages.
Balnaves is a family-owned winery that makes an excellent range of wines,including the sub-$20 The Blend,one of Australia's best-value reds. Tastings can be enjoyed in a modern cellar door surrounded by rose gardens and overlooking a delightful pond.
Zema Estate is one of the rising winery stars of Coonawarra,producing excellent cabernets and shirazes,and its cellar door is a hive of activity,hosting regular events and tastings,many with an Italian theme.
Bowen Estate is a family-owned winery producing just three wines;a cabernet,a shiraz and a chardonnay. Emma Bowen has taken over from her father Doug as winemaker and tastings are conducted in a rustic cellar door.
Katnook Estate is the perfect spot to relax in a renovated cellar door made from local stone and timbers. A lounge area overlooks the vines while a pit dug in the ground shows the famous"terra rossa"soil profile. Complimentary coffee is also on offer.
Also try Rymill,Penley Estate,Brand's Laira,Leconfield,DiGiorgio,Koonara,Patrick and newcomer Raidis Estate.
Where to eat
Fine-dining restaurant Pipers at Penola was recently named best regional restaurant in South Australia. Chef-patron Simon Bowen is a member of one of the district's most famous winemaking families and serves up seriously good food. There's also an excellent wine list.
Winery-dining venue Upstairs at Hollick has long been regarded as one of Australia's finest winery restaurants - a reputation new chef Tim Foster has maintained. Diners can enjoy vineyard views or look into the winery through a glass wall.
The casual Fodder ... Food with Thought,run by former Rymill winemaker John Innes and his wife Melissa,serves relaxed food in Coonawarrra township. The wood-fired pizzas here are particularly good and there is wine from every local producer.
In town The Terra Rossa Wine Club in central Penola specialises in tapas and also acts as the cellar door for four small producers.
What to drink
Cabernet sauvignon is king in Coonawarra and the best wines from the region have been compared to those of Bordeaux. Among the best cabernet sauvignons are Wynns (John Riddoch),Majella,Balnaves (The Tally),Yalumba (The Menzies),Lindemans (St George),Katnook (Odyssey),Brand's Laira (Blockers) and Koonara (Ambriel's Gift).
Highbank,Petaluma and Parker Coonawarra produce outstanding merlots,while Lindemans Pyrus and Majella The Malleea are probably the best red blends,along with more affordable offerings such as Zema Estate's The Cluny,Majella's The Musician and Rymill's mc2.
Shiraz also does well here with Wynns Michael the undoubted star and check out sparkling reds from Majella and DiGiorgio. Chardonnay,riesling and sauvignon blanc are also grown by some local wineries and these tend to offer good value rather than stellar quality.
Where to stay
Georgie's Cottage is a lovely rustic cottage for couples that dates back to the 1880s. Airconditioned and boasting a fully-equipped kitchen,it is within walking distance of Penola's cafes and restaurants.
The eco-friendly Must@Coonawarra offers luxury self-contained apartments with spas,plasma televisions and all modern luxuries.
If you want to splurge,Punters Vineyard Retreat,on the Punters Corner vineyard,is a four-bedroom luxury getaway,each bedroom offering views of the vines.
Ideal for families,Menzies Retreat (attached to the Yalumba cellar door) is a self-contained,luxurious cottage that is very quiet at night and has panoramic vineyard views.
Other choices Merlot and Verdelho Townhouses,the Alexander Cameron Motel,Girraween House,Koonara Cottage and two options at Honeysuckle Rise on the Highbank vineyard property.
Festivals
January The Coonawarra Vignerons Cup is held at Penola racecourse and has been described as"Australia's best country race meeting". It attracts more than 3000 visitors each year.
April During Coonawarra After Dark Weekend wineries open their doors to visitors at the peak of the vintage. Visitors can take a tour of a working winery,chat with local winemakers and watch the grape harvesters in action as well as tasting local produce.
May The 11-day Penola Coonawarra Arts Festival features numerous performances,art exhibitions,workshops and walking tours.
October The Coonawarra Cabernet Celebrations and annual wine barrel auction take place over a weekend of practically non-stop eating and drinking.
Local attractions
Penola is home to the Mary MacKillop Penola Centre,which celebrates Australia's first saint,while the John Riddoch Centre focuses on local history. There are several excellent craft shops,cafes and atmospheric pubs.
Nearby
Mount Gambier is home to the famous Blue Lake,while the Naracoorte Caves are less than half an hour away and it is also just a short drive to the pretty seaside resort of Robe.
Find out more
Penola Coonawarra
Visitor Information Centre
27 Arthur Street,Penola.