The salad sandwich was the first item to go on the menu at Good Ways Deli in Alexandria.
The salad sandwich was the first item to go on the menu at Good Ways Deli in Alexandria.Brook Mitchell

Salad sandwiches,the once ubiquitous staple of Aussie schoolyard lunches,have returned to prominence at cafes and delis across Sydney.

Brighter,greener and frequently beetroot-free,the modern salad sandwich has shed its daggy status to become the surprise hit of the summer at venues such as Small's Deli in Potts Point.

The Polly salad sandwich at Frank's Deli.
The Polly salad sandwich at Frank's Deli.Supplied
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"It quickly became the most popular sandwich on the menu,against all of our expectations,"says co-owner Ben Shemesh.

"At one point I considered changing it,for the sake of variety,but I think we would have had a mutiny on our hands."

At Small's,it's all about the sauces. Fresh garlic and kale puree,housemade green goddess mayo,lemon dressing and pepita pesto are layered between thin slices of crunchy Granny Smith apple,alfalfa sprouts and cos lettuce.

"They're practical,easy to eat on the run … and you can whack leftovers from your fridge in them."

Throw in a few slices of chewy panini bread from the Organic Bread Bar,and it's a"super fresh sandwich that feels healthy",says Shemesh.

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At Frank's Deli,co-owner Ben Kelly created'The Polly',a sandwich with"contrasting textures and complementary flavours"of apple,avo,cucumber,lettuce and spinach pesto mayo between slices of Brickfields ciabatta.

While it was originally intended as a"guilt-free"summer option for vegan and vegetarian customers,Kelly was encouraged to see it achieve crossover popularity.

Cross section of the salad sanwich at Good Ways Deli.
Cross section of the salad sanwich at Good Ways Deli.Brook Mitchell

"It's matching the sales of our deli combo,"Kelly says.

"I think that shows the demand for a fresher and healthier option that is still'deli'quality."

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Salad sandwiches stacked with lettuce,carrots,cucumbers and beetroot were an easy,transportable and nutritious lunch option that fell off cafe menus in the mid 2010s,as conspicuous consumption on social media ramped up and avocado toast became the order du jour.

Good Ways Deli opened its second location in Alexandria late last year.
Good Ways Deli opened its second location in Alexandria late last year.Brook Mitchell

For Jordan McKenzie,director of Good Ways Deli,at Redfern and Alexandria,the classic never lost its appeal.

"Maybe it's just me,but it's hard to get bored of them,"McKenzie says.

"They're practical,easy to eat on the run … and you can whack leftovers from your fridge in them."

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The sandwich takes on an umami twist at Good Ways,where housemade ciabatta bread is stuffed with tilsit cheese,salted carrot,pickled beetroot,alfalfa sprouts,broadleaf rocket and mushroom pate with a kick of vegemite.

Five to try

Good Way's Deli:Salad sandwich $15

Sourdough organic ciabatta bread is baked fresh each morning to create the salad sandwiches at Good Ways Deli. They're filled with"a good lick of butter","a nutty and creamy"tilsit cheese,salted carrot,pickled beetroot,alfalfa sprouts,broadleaf rocket and mushroom pate.goodwaysdeli.com.au

Mama's Boy:Green Goblin $16

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Chef Mat Lindsay uses A.P Bakery bagels to create his take on the salad sandwich. This bright green variation includes avocado,green zhug,pickled zucchini and pistachio pesto."[It] has been close to the best seller,"says Lindsay.mamasboysurryhils.square.site

Lox in a Box:Veggie bagel $16

Lox in a Box encourages its customers to"eat the rainbow"with its veggie bagel. It's one of the few salad sandwiches in Sydney to include beetroot,stacked alongside pickled jalapenos,red onion,tomato,carrot,shredded greens,pickles and cheddar cheese.loxinabox.com.au

Frank's Deli:The Polly $17.50

The summer special at New York-style deli Frank's"has that healthy and fresh feeling,but also a strong and delicious flavour",says co-owner Ben Kelly. It boasts a thick layer of house made spinach pesto mayonnaise,ripe avocado seasoned with flaky salt and pepper,thinly sliced apple,cucumber and dressed lettuce. Kelly suggests adding pecorino romano cheese and ham.franksdeli.com.au

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Small's Deli:Al Green $15.50

Well-seasoned ingredients are key to making the salad sandwich at Small's Deli so delicious,says co-owner Ben Shemesh. The Al Green is"a pretty fat sandwich"which contains avocado,kale puree,granny smith apple,pepita pesto,vegan green goddess and cos lettuce on a fresh panini. Shemesh recommends adding fried chicken to amp up the protein.smallsdeli.com.au

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Bianca HrovatBianca HrovatBianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.

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