Almond taratour with dukkah (rear) and labne with muhammara,served with flatbreads.Simon Schluter“There are dishes that,if I took them off the menu,people would find where I live and do bad things,” he adds. “I’m kidding … sort of.” Among the non-negotiables at the new Rumi:sigara boregi (three-cheese-filled cigars);fried cauliflower studded with currants and pine nuts;and a saffron-marinated,charcoal-fired quail kebab that the late,great Anthony Bourdainwaxed lyrical about when he visited the OG Rumi in 2009.
But despite a rollcall of regulars who Joseph is grateful “will come wherever we go”,he’s not resting on his laurels as he ushers Rumi into a new era.
Barbecued chicken with rose harissa and warrigal greens,one of Rumi’s new dishes.Simon Schluter “My all-time favourite snack is labne and flatbread,” he says. “But we’ve pimped our dips,so you can add muhammara[red capsicum and walnut dip] or almond tarator by the spoonful.” And he’s excited about a new brisket dish that riffs on bastourma,the Turkish air-cured beef,but which is instead slow-cooked and served hot with a bean salad.
For the first time,he’s also recruited a dedicated drinks expert. Steven Kimonides (Kanenas Wines,ex-Burn City Smokers) has taken the wine list from 20- to 100-odd,splitting it into four sections that cater to the clientele’s varied vino preferences. Most interesting – and in tune with Rumi’s food philosophy – are those under “The Old,Old World” header,from the wine regions of Lebanon,Turkey,Armenia and Georgia.
Rumi co-owner and chef Joseph Abboud at the new digs.Simon SchluterThe 80-seat restaurant’s fitout is reminiscent of the old Rumi,with a green terrazzo floor and green-tiled bar,and bronze and brass accents throughout. But a new 20-seat private dining room and an 80-seat events space will allow the Abbouds to diversify into functions.
The relaunch precedes the release of Joseph’s debut cookbook,Rumi:Food of Middle Eastern Appearance,and the Abbouds’ new all-day bar,Rocket Society,which opens alongside Rumi this month.
Joseph Abboud’s forthcoming cookbook,Rumi:Food of Middle Eastern Appearance.Jennifer SooEast Brunswick Village is also home toBridge Road Brewers and will soon welcome aBlackhearts&Sparrows wine shop and a new food-focused cinema calledFomo from some of the Cinema Nova team – the clincher in Joseph’s decision to move in.
“Already it feels like a community,” he says. “We’re all excited to collaborate with each other.”
Open daily 5.30pm-9.30pm.
2 Village Avenue,Brunswick East,rumirestaurant.com.au