Each tigella – also known as acrescentina Modenese – is cooked to order on what Rota calls the “the Ferrari of tigelliere[machines]“,which was custom-made and imported from Modena. The result is a thin,circular bread that’s airy on the inside with a slightly crisp shell.

It’s the second Melbourne venue in the past month to put these Modenese snacks in the spotlight,the other being Fitzroy newcomerEnoteca Zingara.

While still warm,Emilietta’s breads are sliced in half to be stuffed with your fillings of choice. “What we use in the restaurant,we use out here,” says Rota. “It’s all top-quality stuff.”

The Mukka is a stacks-on affair of wagyu bresaola,stracciatella,36-month-aged parmigiano reggiano from rare-breed Reggiano cows (“expensive but delicious,” Rota says),and truffle oil. For the prosciutto-crowned Raffinata,rather than shaving the parmigiano reggiano,it’s baked with semolina,thyme and rosemary to make an intensely flavoured crumble. And the Sarda is an ode to Sardinia involving aged pecorino sardo (a sheep’s milk cheese from the Italian island),ricotta cream,grilled artichokes and mint. The Tola Dolza is a decadent dessert tigella starring Nutella.

Emilietta is a bit more fun and freewheeling than its older sister,Trattoria Emilia,despite sharing the same space. During the day,the team gets around in bright-pink T-shirts – “the colour of our favourite meat:pork,” says Rota – and tigelle are served in bags emblazoned with the quintessentially Italian pinched-hands gesture.

Takeaway is the name of the game,but there are benchtops to perch on where you can also sip $10 glasses of prosecco and lambrusco – another Modenese import.

Open Tue-Fri 10.30am-3pm

1 Gills Alley,Melbourne,emilietta.com.au