Callao leans in on Nikkei cuisine fostered by the influx of Japanese immigrants to Peru.Dexter KimThe diversity of the cuisine helps. Spanish colonisation and African migration created distinct brands of Peruvian cuisine,as well as Chifa-style cooking (a marriage of Chinese and Peruvian).
Callao leans in on one of Peru’s great culinary strengths:the Nikkei cuisine fostered by the influx of Japanese immigrants that began in the late 1800s.
Chef Jihwan Choi worked at the now-closedBar H in Surry Hills and former Pyrmont fine-dinerMomofuku Seiobo before taking charge of the Callao kitchen.
Choi argues Sydney was influenced by Nikkei long before the wave of Peruvian restaurants. “[Chef] Nobu Matsuhisa uses Peruvian ingredients,and many chefs worked at Nobu around the world. Restaurants like Sake[where Choi has also worked] and Toko.”
Ox heart tomato with yuzu kosho,tosazu gel,tomato essence,albahaca oil and whipped queso fresco.Dexter KimWhere Japanese immigrants incorporated Peruvian ingredients,the Japanese-Peruvian Callao follows the same path,with dishes such as an emulsion of the South American chilli pepper,aji amarillo,served with beef tartare and pickled daikon.
Also on the menu is bonito doused with ponzu leche de tigre,avocado ice-cream and the odd Australian reference,such as burnt pineapple parfait and a pineapple sorbet “Paddle Pop”.
The 104-seat dining space,designed by Kathryn Ashley Studio,features raw,textured walls and is framed by a mountain landscape,inspired by Peru’s rainbow mountain,Vinicunca.
Peruvian chef Alejandro Saravia was a pioneer of Peruvian food in Sydney,opening a short-lived restaurant in Surry Hills in 2011. He was early to the trend – perhaps too early – and after opening a number of successful Melbourne restaurants,including Farmer’s Daughters,he will launchMorena restaurant at Sydney’s GPO in mid-March.
Photo:Dexter KimSaravia will take a broad sweep of food at Morena. “In regard to the Peruvian side …[Morena] will showcase a traditional ceviche from Peru and a Nikkei version alongside each other.” The menu will also include lomo saltado,the Chinese-inspired Peruvian dish of stir-fried beef.
“Australians’ understanding of Latin American cuisine has developed in the last decade,with more restaurants opening and more travel between Australia and the Americas,” Saravia says.