Coron Island in Palawan,where the water is as clear as gin.Credit:iStock
The post-pandemic recovery has been spectacular in some South-East Asian countries,but the Philippines still has some way to go before it gets back to the heady days of 2019. In January 2024,more Australians returned from short-term visits to both Thailand and Vietnam than in January 2019 while the Philippines still lagged its figures for that month by about 1500.
The drawcard
Beautiful El Nido in Palawan.Credit:iStock
What the Philippines does best is islands. At the northern tip of Palawan,the town of El Nido – the Nest – teeters on the edge of the stunning Bacuit Archipelago,a marine reserve with 45 limestone islands and gin-clear water. Among the favourites:Pangalusian Island,Miniloc,known for its aquamarine lagoons,and Lagen,about 45 minutes’ ride by outrigger canoe from El Nido village.
Boracay quickly became a backpacker haven.Credit:iStock
Apart from falling asleep in your hammock,the activity list includes picnics on near-deserted islands,visits to secret lagoons or the caves of Snake Island,sailing,windsurfing and jungle hikes. The diving is exceptional. You could spend all your time in and around Palawan,but other options are the Calaguas group of islands,east of Manila,and the islands around the Caramoan peninsula in Camarines Sur,featured in several seasons of the reality TV seriesSurvivor. Apo Island,off the south-eastern tip of Negros Island,is one for the nature lover,a protected marine reserve with pristine coral gardens and marine life.
There have been some missteps. The island of Boracay,a backpacker favourite,used to be party central,a noxious brew of bars and cheap hotels that pumped raw sewerage into the sea. Then in 2018,the government under then president Rodrigo Duterte closed the island for six months,demolished hotels and bars and imposed a 30-metre setback from high tide.