Canberra “feels really busy,it’s really ripe”,Moran says.
Canberra “feels really busy,it’s really ripe”,Moran says.Trent van der Jagt

Moran joins a growing posse of restaurant professionals keen to tap the market. Why is the nation’s capital suddenly attracting these experienced outsiders? “It feels really busy,it’s really ripe,” Moran says.

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Australian chefShaun Quade, who picked up two chefs’ hats at Lume in Melbourne,then packed up four years ago for California,also felt the pull of Canberra when deciding to return home. In March,he’ll openRosa’s, a garden bar,followed byBallyhoo restaurant in April,as part of his role as group culinary executive at The Lawns of the Lobby,near Old Parliament House.

Quade predicts enormous growth in the local hospitality industry due to its proximity to high-quality produce and winemakers,as well as educated and curious diners. With many Sydney restaurantsfeeling the pinch of oversupply and interest rate hikes, Canberra’s economy and government sector job market offer a stable hospitality market.

Veteran Sydney restaurateur Manny Spinola (Lola’s Italian,Bondi and Manon Brasserie at the QVB) was early to the Canberra push,openingWalter Cafe andThe Marion on the edge of Lake Burley Griffin in 2022. Several large Sydney hospitality groups are believed to be close to joining the action.

Moran,who has lost exact count of the number of venues he’s opened but puts the figure around 13 or 14,has partnered on Compa and&Sando with Sydney hospitality outfit Fresh Collective (MOD. Dining by Clayton Wells is part of its stable). Attracted by the buoyancy and potential of the Canberra dining scene,they were careful not to rush in too quickly.

“We looked around and thought about what was needed and the best concepts we can take there,” Moran says. Steak and sandwiches is usually a pretty good bet.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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