Opening with three pristine,unadorned cuts of prized bluefin tuna is a strong play. But Yong Hyun has no shortage of tricks. Wearing chef’s whites as sharp as knives,he casts a dozen diners under the spell of sushi.

Across the meal,15 pieces of fish – much of it Australian – are handed to mesmerised guests:Tasmanian ocean trout speckled with curls of lime zest;springy and firm Victorian duckfish;flathead dotted with umeboshi. Tiny bricks of pressed rice,scampi and bonito butter are blow-torched to luxuriously nutty,salty heights.

Each seat grants views of steely blades transforming ama ebi,fish and scallops into bite-sized accordions and rosettes,while upbeat electronica and laughter between chefs and guests soften the harsh geometry of the room. Button-shaped orange entremets with whimsical hojicha swirls are a refreshing farewell.

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Melbourne’s Eastern Suburbs

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