James Parker,Northbridge.
14/20

Hit Northbridge now for sushi’s greatest hits

While the Japanese restaurant performs many of sushi-kind’s greatest hits,its most gratifying moments are reserved for those that seek out B-sides and deep cuts.

  • Max Veenhuyzen
Bar Spontana’s fitout features brick walls,exposed roof trusses and colourful artwork.
14/20

Funk,fire and fantastic cocktails:This secret bar might be the Thai diner of your dreams

Bar Spontana is one of those spots that feels like a secret,and a really juicy secret at that.

  • Besha Rodell
Bistro Grenier
14.5/20

This funky new bistro is a bit French,a bit somewhere else,and a whole lot of Newtown

The loft space above Odd Culture becomes the dark and moody Bistro Grenier.

  • Terry Durack
The sushi train,imported from Taiwan,fits the narrow Bourke Street site.
13.5/20

It’s super weird,fun and accessible,but a few things almost send this big-name sushi train off track

The Bossa Nova pitch sounds like a drunken late-night thought bubble. But it’s a welcome measure of weirdness for this great restaurant town.

  • Besha Rodell
Sails overlooks Lavender Bay,Luna Park,the bridge and beyond.
14.5/20

If you’ve ever searched ‘harbourside restaurants with a view’ this revamped diner will float your boat

Sails had recently had a major renovation,and now feels like a relaxed luxury weekender where you’ll want to linger.

  • Terry Durack
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Go-to dish:Grilled beef tongue,jicama and salted chilli.
Good Food hat15/20

The pasta might have caught your attention,but there are other delights at Attenzione!

The wine bar-restaurant is big on personality and flavour,plus great cocktails,mystery wine and head-scratching dish names.

  • Callan Boys
Bonito with palm heart and pomelo.
13/20

It has a new hotshot Sydney chef and great service. So why has this St Kilda stalwart lost its hat?

The room,drinks and service are all great. But the umami-forward food leaves our critic feeling baffled.

  • Besha Rodell
Crisp-skinned red mullet on sauce Americaine with fregola.
Good Food hat15/20

‘Make a mess’:This beachside bolthole puts the fun into fine dining

Head chef Luke Churchill’s menu is simultaneously serious and playful,running from sultry little snacks to big-ticket,kick-up-your-heels items.

  • Terry Durack
The “killer” cauliflower dish.

Why this ‘killer’ charred cauliflower stopped our reviewer in her tracks

It didn’t look that different from a hundred other vegan offerings around town. Eating it was a different story.

  • Dani Valent
Allta’s timber slats arch over diners like a blond wood Hokusai wave.
Good Food hatGood Food hat16.5/20

‘One to watch and then some’:Two-hatted newcomer is fancy,but also a lot of fun

Allta is one of Sydney’s best new restaurants to open this year. It’s also the most expensive.

  • Callan Boys