Chef Josh Niland at Petermen in St Leonards.Louie DouvisDon’t expect the intimacy of Saint Peter nor the buzz of his St Leonards bistro Petermen at Fysh. Singapore demands glamour,and the elegant,high-ceilinged room delivers,with marble tables,green velvet banquettes,lush plantings,and an imposing green marble bar. At intervals,400g dry-aged Mooloolaba yellowfin tuna rib-eye and condiments are wheeled out theatrically for selection.
Fysh showcases Niland’s sustainable scale-to-tail philosophy – something new for Singapore – but its hotel location necessitates the menu’s inclusion of a couple of vegetarian dishes,along with a popular quail entrée,and chicken and sirloin main courses.
Niland,who recently wonThe Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide’sChef of the Year award,is determined to create desirability around all parts of fish.
Fysh Martini made with Murray cod fat-washed gin,fino sherry and dry vermouth.Rachel TanFormer Saint Peter andFish Butchery chef Luke Cawsey heads up the kitchen at Fysh,which is open daily for breakfast,lunch and dinner.
The food delivers on Niland’s trademark fishy sleight-of-hand. Why use bacon when you can “fat-wash” the Stranger&Sons gin with Murray cod fat instead? Or use beef to make cheeseburgers when you can season off-cuts of yellowfin tuna to make patties,then slide them into a sesame seed bun with mustard,chopped pickles and cheese?
Many of the dishes will be familiar to visiting Aussies and indeed,Niland is using many of his trusted Australian suppliers,alongside the occasional product sourced from ethical suppliers further afield,such as a Demarne turbot chop,farmed in France,served with seaweed tapenade.
Fysh cheeseburger,made with Mooloolaba yellowfin tuna patties,and served with kombu fries.Rachel TanAquna Murray cod is all crisp skin and luscious flesh. Flaking easily,it finishes cooking as the warm plate lands on the table,complemented by smoked eel gremolata,herb salad and a lemony aioli. Mooloolaba yellowfin tuna steak tartare,eaten in crisp leaves of witlof,comes with all the traditional accompaniments,yet the tuna shines through.
Prices are on par with Saint Peter,though there is an obligatory addition of 18 per cent for GST and service,not exorbitant for Singapore.
After an impressive start,Fysh looks set to show Singaporeans there is far more to fish than two fillets,and more to Australian food than meat pies,macadamia nuts and pavlova.
Openbreakfastdaily 6.30am-10.30am;lunch daily noon-2.30pm;dinner Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm,Fri-Sun 6pm-10.30pm.