It’s the sort of labour-intensive,high-quality pizza you’re likely to find at some ofSydney’s best pizza restaurants,such as Dimitri’s Pizzeria in Darlinghurst or Bella Brutta in Newtown. But over the past year,the concentration of quality has increasingly spread far beyond the city’s hospitality hubs.
Among the newcomers areUllo Pizza and Wine, a slick restaurant overlooking the beach in Dee Why; Peppina’s, a mobile kitchen attracting late-night crowds to an industrial car park in Roselands;andLa Favola Food Truck, a stationary food truck in Caringbah where pizzas are made using a secret family recipe.
These shops are often owned by people who live or grew up locally.
Some,such as co-owner ofManly pizzeria Avoja,Federico Zanellato (LuMi Dining),are highly trained chefs who “wanted to make a great quality product to feed my community”.
Others,such as Ben Gilbert ofLevain Pizzeria in Woolooware Bay and Antonio Lupo and Anthony Costa ofTutto Vero in Oatley,were passionate hobbyists who turned pro after portable pizza ovens such as Gozney and Ooni made the dream more accessible.
Simona Bevilacqua,20,says she opened La Favola Food Truck with partner Giovanni Bentivoglio last spring in response to growing demand for high-quality pizza in the outer ’burbs. The affordability of operating in Caringbah rather than the city centre allowed the pair to spend more on premium ingredients,she says.
The trend emerged in the midst of the pandemic,pioneered by restaurateurs such as Sal Senan,Huss Rachid and Amani Rachid from popular Bexley North pizza-and-wings parlourMy Mother’s Cousin (MMC).
“We all grew up in the suburbs,and we spent a lot of time travelling into the city to eat at all the cool places,” Senan says.
“We felt like the suburbs needed some love,and it excites us that we can give them the same quality as they’d find anywhere else.”
MMC’s pizza proved popular,often selling out before 9pm,and some two and a half years later customers still queue to score a table on busy nights.
The sell-out suburban success story has repeated time and again,at Peppina’s (selling out by 8pm on weekends),Ullo’s (moving more than 200 kilograms of flour each week) and Tutto Vero (with wait times of up to one hour).
“We couldn’t meet the demand[because] the business took off really fast,” says Michael Sgourdas,co-owner of Penshurst pizzeriaBsp’eria,recalling four straight weeks when they sold out by 7pm. In December,Bsp’eria relocated to a nearby restaurant for greater kitchen capacity.
“We opened a pizzeria because we love pizza,that’s the number one reason,” says Lupo,of Tutto Vero.
“[But] it feels like an appreciation for good pizza is becoming more common and the expectation is higher everywhere,not just in the city.”
Peppina’s,Roselands
Childhood best friends Armand Nariman and James Gulli bit the bullet and opened their dream pizzeria in a Roselands carpark in October. Gulli,an Italian-trained pizzaiolo,is the former co-owner and head chef at Pizza Madre in Marrickville. Peppina’s (so-named for Gulli’s nonna) starts pumping at around 9pm,where crowds queue to try the Salamino pizza.
Must-order: Polpo ($28),with Fremantle octopus braised in San Marzano tomatoes,Ligurian olives,capers,charred cherry tomatoes and salmoriglio (a Sicilian lemon-based dressing) on a sourdough base.
67 Chapel Street,Roselands,peppinas.com.au
Avoja Pizza,Manly
Chef and restaurateur of two-hatted Darling Harbour restaurant LuMi Dining,Federico Zanellato,teamed up with restaurant manager Angelo Cristella and wine importer Piero Fonescato open this quintessentially Italian pizzeria. The kitchen is headed up by former Da Orazio pizzaiolo Matteo Ernandes,who makes Neapolitan-style pies with a twist.
Must-order: ’Nduja ($27),with salami and capsicum on a pre-fermented,high-hydration base.
208 Pittwater Road,Manly,avoja.com.au
Bsp’eria,Penshurst
Fans of the Neapolitan-inspired pizza at Bsp’eria can now enjoy it while seated at a table,rather than perched on roadside milk crates. The charming 10-seater diner opened in a former butcher shop in December,with a pizza garden out the back and the same small,unique menu that has won over so many locals.
Must-order: Uncle Charlie ($26),with mozzarella,’nduja,ricotta,honey and parsley with white sauce on a sourdough base.
129 Laycock Road,Penshurst,bsperia.com
Tutto Vero,Oatley
It’s the first hospitality venture for childhood best friends and pizza enthusiasts Antonio Lupo and Anthony Costa,who opened the stylish Tutto Vero with pizza chef and Neapolitan native Pasquale Petrecca in November. It’s a small,stylish eatery overlooking the park,with soccer games on the TV and a crowd of customers eating outside on weekends.
Must-order: Tutto Bene ($27) with San Marzano tomato sauce,garlic oil,grana padano,fior di latte,basil,red onion,salami,’nduja,honey and fresh ricotta on Neapolitan-style dough.
5/12A Oatley Parade,Oatley,tuttovero.com.au
Ullo Pizza and Wine,Dee Why
This Northern Beaches newcomer (opened by Kurtis Bosley of Banco and Corretto) isn’t your typical neighbourhood pizza joint:it’s more like an Italo-disco wine bar from Surry Hills,with an extensive list of forward-thinking winemakers,native-infused cocktails and DJs playing. Former Rockpool chef Josefa Rakuro leads the kitchen,making Neapolitan-inspired pizzas.
Must-order: Beef cheek ($30),with tomato base,slow-cooked beef cheek,goat’s cheese,spring onion and parmesan on a 48-hour cold fermented pizza dough base.
Level 1,23 The Strand,Dee Why,ullopizzawine.com
Levain Sourdough Pizza,Woolooware Bay
When Levain Sourdough Pizza opens on February 17,it will be the fulfilment of a long-held dream for owner-cook Ben Gilbert,who fell in love with the art of pizza making five years ago. Using his Gozney pizza oven,Gilbert trialled up to three different recipes a week to develop his unique sourdough bases. All ingredients,even the wheat,are sourced from regional NSW.
Must-order:Prosciutto blue ($28),with basil,rocket,tomato,prosciutto and blue cheese on a sourdough base.
Shop 1.39/455 Captain Cook Drive,Woolooware,levainpizza.com
Pizza Bros,Erskineville
Their names are Joey Peparoni and Marty McFly (yes,really) and they’re known for their “leopard crust” pizza bases and unorthodox toppings. Having trained at some of Sydney’s top pizzerias (Gigi’s,Bella Brutta,Lucio’s,among others),they first went TikTok viral for their Gozney pop-up at Grifter in Marrickville. Now,they’ve moved into a permanent space on the rooftop of The Imperial Erskineville.
Must-order:Waterworld ($28),a Thai-inspired pizza with fior di latte,fermented chilli sauce,prawns and pancetta on a chewy,multi-fermented dough base.
Rooftop at The Imperial Erskineville,35 Erskineville Road,Erskineville,instagram.com/pizzabrosau
Fratelli Pulcinella,Parramatta and Ryde
This three-storey pizza extravaganza in Parramatta is worlds away from owner Alessio Zullo’s hidden backyard pizzeria in Ryde − but his much-hyped Neapolitan-style pies remain the same. There are 29 varieties to choose from,each made in a wood-fired oven with a foldable,chewy dough.
Must-order: Buffalo margherita ($30),with extra tomato sauce,basil and freshly made buffalo mozzarella cheese.
399 Church Street,Parramatta and 728 Victoria Road,Ryde,fratellipulcinellaparramatta.yqme.com.au
Divide8 Pizza,Waverley
Pizza enthusiasts Peter Augoustis and Jon Paul Partyka met in the early days of Crust Pizza,when Augoustis had a hand in developing the menu. Now,their focus is on fresh and locally sourced ingredients − at very affordable prices. Order at happy hour (Tuesday to Thursday,5-6pm) for $15 pizzas.
Must-order: Pepperoni2 ($24),with double pepperoni and roasted red capsicum,topped with crushed chilli and crispy capers,on a crispy base.
65 Macpherson Street,Waverley,divide8.com.au
La Favola Food Truck,Caringbah
Trained pizzaiolo and co-owner Giovanni Bentivoglio uses a secret family recipe to create up to 100 pizzas a day alongside partner Simona Bevilacqua. The couple,who met during a holiday in Italy,serve Neapolitan-style pizzas and gnocchi at the back of Bevilacqua’s late grandfather’s workshop,with undercover seating and a fun,casual vibe.
Must-order: Patate e salsiccia ($25),with mozzarella,extra virgin olive oil,Italian sausage,sliced potatoes and fresh rosemary.
20 Woodfield Boulevard,Caringbah,instagram.com/lafavolafoodtruck
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