Illustration:Simon Letch.
Illustration:Simon Letch.

That’s using own-rooted vines;grafted rootlings protect vines against lethal root-eating pests,but they cost about two-and-a-half times more than ungrafted ones. The cost of everything else – posts,wire,fertiliser,irrigation equipment,fuel,labour,tractors and other machinery,not to mention the price of the land – has risen sharply since the pandemic.

If you’re new to the industry,it might pay to hire a consultant. That will be costly,too,but you’ll hopefully avoid making expensive mistakes.

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If you plan to sell the grapes and not make wine,make sure you have a watertight contract before you dig the first clod. That in itself is a minefield. Countless grape-growers have found themselves staring at a vintage without a buyer,which is how many end up deciding to become winemakers. It’s a bit like starting a family by mistake:“Oh gee,we’re pregnant. We might as well have a brood.”

Another factor to think about is the declining market for wine. Everyone I speak to in the industry and the trade say they’ve never known the market so difficult. Don’t say you weren’t warned!

Got a drinks question for Huon Hooke?thefullbottle@goodweekend.com.au

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Huon HookeHuon Hooke is a wine writer.

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