Go-to dish:Coral trout and its parts.
Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18/20

Sydney has a new three-hat restaurant,and it’s in a former pub

Josh Niland’s tasting menu showcases the near-limitless potential of fish. But it’s not all livers and eyes and “oh,my!”

  • Callan Boys
Sails overlooks Lavender Bay,Luna Park,the bridge and beyond.
14.5/20

If you’ve ever searched ‘harbourside restaurants with a view’ this revamped diner will float your boat

Sails had recently had a major renovation,and now feels like a relaxed luxury weekender where you’ll want to linger.

  • Terry Durack
Stuffed homemade tofu with pork mince.
14.5/20

Eating this extra-special tofu dish is like being softly covered by a blanket

Hakka Cuisine is on a mission to expand Melbourne’s understanding of Chinese food,one burbling claypot,sticky dumpling and pork-stuffed tofu pillow at a time.

  • Dani Valent
Bonito with palm heart and pomelo.
13/20

It has a new hotshot Sydney chef and great service. So why has this St Kilda stalwart lost its hat?

The room,drinks and service are all great. But the umami-forward food leaves our critic feeling baffled.

  • Besha Rodell
Crisp-skinned red mullet on sauce Americaine with fregola.
Good Food hat15/20

‘Make a mess’:This beachside bolthole puts the fun into fine dining

Head chef Luke Churchill’s menu is simultaneously serious and playful,running from sultry little snacks to big-ticket,kick-up-your-heels items.

  • Terry Durack
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Pizza Diavola with spicy salami,onion and roasted capsicum.

Everyone can get a pizza the action at this allergy-friendly pizzeria

Plus:Don’t miss nonna’s-gnocchi-meets-potato-gems at warm and welcoming neighbourhood gem Shop 225.

  • Dani Valent
14.5/20

Coogee dining was a hard sell during winter. Until this beachside wine bar reinvented itself

A refreshed menu from experienced fine-dining chefs takes beachside bar Coogee Wine Room from popular local haunt to fully fledged restaurant.

  • Terry Durack
Southall’s keema naan (left) and Gruyere naan.
14/20

Second to naan:Which of this longstanding Indian restaurant’s stuffed breads is best?

The two tandoor-cooked breads are so good,and so different,that it’s impossible to decide which one is better.

  • Dani Valent
The go-to dish:Chilli oil parfait is a riot of bold flavours.
Good Food hat15/20

Lygon Street favourite gets a new chef,and a hot new ‘mind-bending’ chilli oil dessert

Always a place that showcases Melbourne dining,Etta has been reinvigorated by a new chef bringing Asian-influenced flavours to the fore.

  • Besha Rodell
14.5/20

Jackets off! The city’s born-again Japanese canteen is already chockers with corporate types

After closing in December,popular all-rounder Azuma returns to the CBD.

  • Terry Durack