Thiszen-like hideaway recently wonGood Food Guide Bar of the Year for its all-round excellent service,drinks and vibe. Sake importer extraordinaire Matt Young and chef Jemma Whiteman’s painstakingly detailed interpretation of a “jazu kissa” (Japanese listening bar) is a meditative escape from the outside world. Be spirited away by every element,from the 2500-strong vinyl collection to the eclectic snacks and bespoke glassware. It’s an education in the ins and outs of junmai (additive-free,“pure rice”) sake,and the fine art of food and drink pairing.
146 King Street,Newtown,ante.bar
Eat your body weight in chicken-on-a-stick at thismoody yakitori spot. Owner-chef Keita Abe,the mind behindChaco Ramen andHaco Tempura,keeps things theatrical in this horseshoe-shaped dining room,whether you’re at a smoky front counter or a long communal table. Go for some crowd-pleasing spiced chicken wings or sizzling pork belly,or for something a little left-field try the scarlet-pink split king prawns dripping with lobster butter. For bonus points,order some elegant cold somen noodles and fat,sweet Hokkaido scallops.
186-188 Victoria Street,Potts Point,chacobar.com.au
Although we mourn that Gaku’s famous lunchtime ramen disappeared when itswitched to kaiseki-style omakase in September,you’re still in safe hands with owner-chef Haru Inukai and Shimon Hanakura at the helm of this 11-seater. Expect a tasting menu blending exceptional Australian and Japanese ingredients with French technique and luxe touches of lobster,truffle,foie gras and caviar sprinkled throughout. And hey,look,the ramen’s still here after all,just in a smaller bowl,with duck and yuzu broth.
Shop 2,132 Darlinghurst Road,Darlinghurst,gakurobatagrill.com.au
Thisbento-sized izakaya taps into Japanese drinking culture in an endearingly traditional way,offering everyday prices for the sorts of foods that go well with sake,beer,whisky and Coke. See:golden deep-fried chicken wings,crunchy school-prawn karaage or brothy agedashi tofu. It’s the latest venture fromHatena Group,the force behind Darling Square’s raucously popularNakano Darling and Crows Nest standing barTachinomi YP. Walk-ins might snare a table on the Darlo footpath;otherwise you need to book (way) ahead to reserve a coveted seat at the narrow counter.
393 Liverpool Street,Darlinghurst,nomidokoroindigo.com.au
Superb sushi has hit Ramsgate with the opening ofRen Ishii,a neighbourhood destination named for Lucy Liu’s character in Quentin Tarantino’sKill Bill. Luke and Stephanie Phillips run a warm,friendly,modern Japanese restaurant with a cocktail bar and street-side seating. Key to their operation is long-serving sushi chef Yoshinori Fuchigami,whom the pair met when working at Rose Bay’s Catalina years ago. His nigiri is first-rate,and even the more contemporary dishes have that moreish blend of acidity and richness.
29 Campbell Street,Ramsgate,renishii.com.au
Sokyo chef Chase Kojima’s tiny,neon-litramen omakase bar delivers a speedy succession of five small plates followed by knockout ramen. Diners can choose between five creations for the headline act,including tonkotsu draped with soft pork cheek,and a “chilli miso butter” ramen made with chicken broth. Don’t have a booking? Senpai’s newBurwood spin-off is walk-in only.
Shop G05,88 Archer Street,Chatswood,senpairamen.com
This fine-dining neo-Japanese space offers a dark-curtained version of Sydney where high rollers,old friends and first dates revel under moody lighting with champagne and top-shelf sashimi. Chef Chase Kojima balances tradition and inventiveness with dishes such as bluefin tataki starring six slivers of tuna,encircled by leek aioli,pickled mushrooms and edible flowers. Chicken yakitori has a smoky intensity,while ravioli stuffed with Hokkaido scallop is zesty and briny. Across the water,Crown Sydney’sNobu serves up its perennially popular black miso cod and spectacular nigiri plates.
Ground level,The Star,80 Pyrmont Street,Pyrmont,star.com.au
Tea-fuelledcafe Tento levels up leftover rice by filling teapots with a creamy seven-vegetable broth for vegan ochazuke. Pour it over the bowl’s sculptural rice ball and the air blooms with the scent of buttered popcorn. Smoked bonito stock flavours the salmon ochazuke,while a chicken version is seasoned with chilli oil. Tento’s Kyoto alleyway feel is backed by other Japanese flourishes,including handcrafted ramen bowls and latte mugs.
8 Hill Street,Surry Hills,tento.com.au
This fine-dining French-Japanese trailblazer is still firing at Kent Street until August,when it will have tofind a new home due to the building’s redevelopment. In the meantime,that signature confit ocean trout still impresses,and creamy,dashi-rich koshihikari rice with wispy,fine-cut strands of squid proves a daring combination shot through with finger lime. Visit thisseminal player in Australia’s culinary evolution at its current temple one last time.
529 Kent Street,Sydney,tetsuyas.com
Sydney has embraced omakase with awave of openings in recent years,but for a two-hat experience in plush surrounds head to Crown Sydney for Yoshii’s Omakase. With a minimum spend of $350 per person,this 10-seater isn’t cheap,but its price is entirely justified by sushi master Ryuichi Yoshii’s pristine seafood. His sushi procession (think kingfish belly,ume-licked bonito and squid scored to bloom like a flower) is as good as it gets. Throw in top-shelf sake and White Bay views,and this is essential Sydney dining.
Level 2,1 Barangaroo Avenue,Barangaroo,crownsydney.com.au
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