14.5/20How we score
French$$$$
It’s billed as “your neighbourhood bistro”. Easily said. But this long-time local matches the pitch – a converted house with surrounding greenery,affable service,beaut food,good wine.
Under the yellow-striped awning or along the banquettes,everyone’s doing pâté,tartare and steak frites. But you might also spread lightly smoky trout rillettes onto dark barley-rye crisps then head confit duck-wards,the meat flaked on soft lentils and juiced up with figs. Pepper steak,served blushing in a punchy gravy,is another fine idea,and co-owner Stewart Parsons’ reserve wine list can match it with an interesting gamay.
Quartered iceberg dredged in sheep’s cheese “snow”,and onion-y peas a la francaise are the sides you’re looking for. And the light and lovely caramelised apple millefeuille? Yep,we’ll have what everyone else is having.
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Storied institution that’s more than a nostalgia trip.
Spiced eggs,tajines,tea and cake in a relaxed setting.
Superb soups and spectacular snacks on a sunny streetside.
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