Brought to you by the maestri behind Fitzroy’s The Everleigh,this subterranean den evokes bohemian Paris via New York,with chequerboard floors,red banquettes and lighting for lovers.

The list of by-the-glass wine skews French and Victorian but is arguably outshone by the cocktails,which,if not Margaux’s raison d’etre,is surely its piece de resistance.

Spring for a petit martini followed by saucy duck fragrant with cinnamon,nutmeg and ginger,served with fries to split with your dance partner. Throw in a classic tartare and some oysters then later,recoil in delight as your spoon breaches the caramel pane of otherwise defenceless creme brulee.