Around the corner from a coin laundry and across from Brooklyn Fire Station is a station of another sort,one all about the flaky,buttery flatbread parotta. The restaurant is heralded by sunny yellow signage and inside it’s a laminate-benched,faux-brick-wallpapered,help- yourself-to-the-drinks-fridge sort of joint where much of the clientele comes for takeaway.

The eponymous flatbread is stuffed with herbs and shredded egg for mutta parotta,while salna parotta pairs it with a sweet,fragrant masala gravy. Swipe yet more of it through smoky,cardamom-heavy butter chicken.

Lamb kothu – a savoury hurricane of a dish big on black pepper with chopped egg,curry leaves and green chilli – uses sliced parotta. The restaurant is halal so there’s no booze,but soft drinks and lassi get the job done.