Something thoroughly nice happens when a cafe takes up residence at one end of a retirement home,and plays host to a mix of young and old. The fact that Shuk Elizabeth Bay doesn't belong to one particular tribe also appears to have a civilising influence. There isn't the competitive athleisure parade that plagues so many cafes,nor the habit of sitting on one's laptop for hours on end that can send a business broke. Instead,people gather in small groups and talk,and eat and drink. They're nice to young and old,and pat each other's dogs. It's a miracle.
Space
She-oaks and hibiscus cascade along the courtyard wall,as if you're in some quaint little village in the tropical hinterland. You're so not. Instead,you're the toss of a yoga mat downhill from the main drag of King's Cross,tucked away in the leafy enclave of the Trebartha Luxury Retirement Resort.
It's an unlikely place to open a cafe,but Shuk (as in"shook" not"shuck") has been a runaway success,ticking all the boxes for its privileged community. The wonky corner space is flooded with light,holding a mix of round and square tables,a busy back kitchen,well-stocked shelves of bakery goodies and a hidden private room that feels like you've been banished to solitary confinement.
Food
Bondi's much-loved Israeli and Middle Eastern cafe has a proven formula that transplants easily to E/Bay:big,bright,vibrant platters of breads,dips,eggs,sandwiches and rolls,ferried to the table by young,breezy staff.
Chef German Sanchez builds great visual appeal into the food,and his Israeli breakfast for two ($23) looks like the result of two grandmothers fighting over who can feed you the most. The vast tray is over-populated with eggs any which way and pots of avocado,hummus,salad,granola and – I've lost count,it's all too much.
Besides,it's almost impossible to go past the shakshuka ($17) of baked eggs wreathed in rich,reduced tomato sauce with red capsicum,sweet spices,herbs and olives,with sourdough toast on the side. Add-ons include sliced sujuk (dry,spicy beef sausage,$4.50),chorizo,haloumi or wilted kale.
Hummus is rich and nutty,forming a blond pond around a crumble of spicy minced lamb,pinenuts and pickles ($20), with puffy round white flatbreads waiting on the side.
In fact,the breads from Shuk's own Bondi bakery are so good,you won't have room for anything sweet. Just kidding. Doughnuts ($3) are golden pillows of sugar-dusted nostalgia,and the traditional little rugelach pastry ($2.50) is like a plump,bittersweet pouch of pain au chocolat.
Coffee
Beans are from the North Shore's long-established Bay Coffee Roasters,and the hearty,no-nonsense roast gives an upfront caffe latte with a pleasing cocoa nib aftertaste.
Drinks
Given the demographics,there is everything from an espresso martini to a nice cup of tea – but you can't assume who's drinking what. Some of those elderlies are just hanging in until the sun's over the yardarm before they order a shiraz,and good luck to them.
Loving The easy,neighbourly mix of oldies,youngies and furry friends
Not getting The grey rings of my hard-boiled egg,a sure sign of over-cooking,and a rare fail.
Vegan factor Loads of vegan choices,including shakshuka with eggplant instead of eggs.
Overheard "That's way too big for one person.""No,it isn't."
Caffe latte $3.50/$4