Bonito with palm heart and pomelo.
13/20

It has a new hotshot Sydney chef and great service. So why has this St Kilda stalwart lost its hat?

The room,drinks and service are all great. But the umami-forward food leaves our critic feeling baffled.

  • Besha Rodell
The Spice Bag.

‘A flavour cacophony’:Popular fish and chip shop’s Irish-Chinese loaded fries are ‘perfect’

British and Irish-inspired takeaway shop Northern Soul goes through 850 kilograms of potatoes a week.

  • Dani Valent
Donovans in St Kilda.
Good Food hat15/20

Birthdays,parties,anything:This beloved bayside restaurant is the definition of dependable

Dismiss Donovans as outdated at your peril. The classic food and charming service make it ideal for young and old.

  • Besha Rodell
Go-to dish:The oyster selection is fun to slurp your way around the Australian coast.
14/20

There isn’t a house wine here,but there are ‘house oysters’ (and they don’t get better)

Let yourself be steered off-road and try a different pairing at oyster and wine bar The Walrus.

  • Dani Valent
King prawn dumplings with tapioca “caviar”.

These ‘genius’ dumplings are not what you might expect at a typical suburban Thai

Charlong is clever,creative,run by women and could only be in Melbourne.

  • Dani Valent
Advertisement
Go-to dish:Fritto misto,a tumble of seafood,fried lemon and crisped sage leaves.
Good Food hat15/20

A celebrity chef brings a party (and a Good Food hat) to this St Kilda pub

Saint George’s beachy cocktails,proteins with pizazz and cared-for fish dishes may finally help revive Fitzroy Street’s fortunes.

  • Besha Rodell
Karen Martini is excited to be back cooking in St Kilda.

First look at Karen Martini’s new St Kilda restaurant,Saint George

A late ’90s look,fried Italian snacks,fish burgers,frosty beers and caesar salad:Karen Martini is taking on the pub.

  • Emma Breheny
West Australian half lobster topped with truffled parmesan gratin and served with fries.

‘Pure,uncomplicated pleasure’:Swap fish and chips for luxe lobster at this beachside kiosk

Dani Valent pushes the boat out for her annual summer seafood fix,complete with a faceful of Port Phillip Bay.

  • Dani Valent
Karen Martini to take over the Saint Hotel dining room in St Kilda.

Chef Karen Martini returns to her roots to help revive a St Kilda favourite

The celebrity chef will take over the Saint Hotel dining room,bringing Italian grills and bright snacks,plus a new name that honours a hospitality pioneer.

  • Ardyn Bernoth andEmma Breheny
Ronnie Di Stasio and artist Shaun Gladwell upstairs in a new (but not finished gallery space) The artist will be showing his work in this space in a complete overhaul of Di Stasio.

‘St Kilda’s on the cusp again’:Legendary restaurant set for its biggest change in 35 years

Famed restaurateur Ronnie Di Stasio has put his Yarra Valley estate on the market and is amping up his restaurant business with an art gallery and more.

  • Emma Breheny